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Disclosure :  Some of the links on this page are affiliate links, and I may earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase. Is setting up a rainwater collection system for your entire home and garden cheap? No! Sure, you can save money with some DIY parts and pieces, but the upfront cost of a potable rainwater harvesting system can be significant depending on its size and storage capacity. That said, as water scarcity becomes a growing concern in many parts of the world and with so many people living in rural areas where municipal water isn't an option, more homeowners (like us!) are turning to sustainable solutions like rainwater harvesting. While this practice has long been used for irrigation, it’s increasingly being adopted for household use—including potable (drinkable) water. We installed a building-code-compliant potable rainwater harvesting system  that supplies all our household and gardening needs, and in this post, I’ll use our own setup as an example to share what it really cost us to get it up and running. I’ll break down the real costs involved, explore what you need for a fully functional system, and look at why this investment could pay off in more ways than one. Why Choose a Potable Rainwater Harvesting System? For many homeowners, collecting rainwater is more than saving on water bills—it's about independence, sustainability, and securing a reliable water source. A potable system allows you to use harvested rainwater for drinking, cooking, bathing, and all other household needs , not just for gardening or flushing toilets. This makes it ideal for: Off-grid homes Rural properties with unreliable well or municipal water Eco-conscious households looking to reduce their environmental impact Preppers and self-reliant lifestyles But turning rainwater into safe, drinkable water involves more components and more cost than a simple barrel under a gutter. Components of a Potable Rainwater Harvesting System Before diving into the numbers, let’s look at what’s included in a full system designed for potable use: Catchment Surface : Typically your home’s roof. Metal roofing is preferred because it doesn’t leach harmful chemicals and is easier to clean. Gutters and Downspouts : These channel rainwater from the roof into your storage tanks. First-Flush Diverter : Removes the initial dirty runoff from the roof before it reaches your storage tank. Storage Tanks : These range from 500 gallons to over 10,000 gallons, depending on your usage and rainfall. Materials include plastic, fiberglass, or concrete. Filtration System : Sediment filters Activated carbon filters UV purification or reverse osmosis systems for disinfection Pumps and Pressure Tanks : To deliver water from the tank to your taps at usable pressure. Backup Systems  (optional): Integration with well water or city water in case of drought. Each of these components adds to the overall cost—but also to the system's reliability and safety. How Much Does a Potable Rainwater Harvesting System Cost? The cost can vary widely based on location, system size, and whether you install it yourself or hire professionals. Here’s a general breakdown: Component Estimated Cost Range Gutters and Downspouts $500 – $2,000 First Flush Diverters $100 – $300 Storage Tanks (2,500–15,000 gallons) $1,000 – $10,000+ Filtration System $1,000 – $3,000 UV or RO Disinfection $800 – $2,000 Pump and Pressure System $700 – $2,500 Installation Labor $2,000 – $10,000+ Permits & Engineering $300 – $2,000 Total Estimated Cost $6,400 – $31,800+ These are ballpark figures, and actual costs can go higher or lower depending on specific needs, climate, and regional construction costs. For example, if you’re in a dry climate, you may need to invest in larger tanks to get through long dry periods. Conversely, in wetter areas, you can downsize your tank and save significantly. Here is a table similar to the one above with costs for our own rainwater harvesting system here in Northern Arizona: Component Our cost (2021/22) Gutters and downspouts on garage/shop, installed $2,200 Gutters, downspouts, and first flushes on house, installed $2,890 (3) 5,000-gallon cisterns plus delivery (CA to AZ) $10,174 Filtration system (US Water Systems) $300 Quantum disinfection system  (US Water Systems) $500 Pump and pressure system $900 Excavation and installation for cisterns, trenching for water lines $2,300 Permitting Included in permit cost for home construction Total Cost $19,264 Want to know more about how our system is working out? See: Rainwater Harvesting in Arizona: How We Live Off the Rain in the High Desert . Real-World Considerations 1. Maintenance and Upkeep Even the best system requires regular maintenance: Cleaning or replacing filters and replacing UV bulbs (if you have that type of disinfection) Inspecting gutters and diverters Tank cleaning Testing water quality periodically Annual maintenance costs can potentially range from $100 to $500, especially if you hire someone to service your system and have to purchase new filters. 2. Permits and Codes If your system is for potable use and part of new construction, you’ll likely need to comply with local building codes and health regulations . Some jurisdictions require inspections, engineered plans, or certifications for filtration systems. Make sure to check with your local health department or building authority before installing. 3. DIY vs. Professional Installation A DIY installation can significantly lower costs, especially if you’re handy and already have some infrastructure and tools and equipment. But potable systems have stricter safety requirements, so hiring a professional can ensure everything is up to code—and safe to drink. Is It Worth the Investment? While the upfront cost of a potable rainwater harvesting system  can be significant, there are many long-term benefits: Lower water Bills or no water bills : In some areas, municipal water is expensive, and the savings can add up quickly. Water security : Particularly important in drought-prone or wildfire-prone regions. Environmental impact : Reduces reliance on groundwater and centralized water systems. Increased property value : A well-installed system can be a strong selling point for eco-conscious buyers. And it's satisfying , too! Plus, many states and municipalities offer rebates or tax incentives  for installing rainwater harvesting systems, especially if they're designed to reduce stormwater runoff or supplement municipal supply. Final Thoughts Investing in a potable rainwater harvesting system isn’t just a lifestyle choice—it’s a long-term investment in resilience, sustainability, and health. Whether you’re off-grid, preparing for emergencies, or just want cleaner, more sustainable water, a well-designed system can provide all your household water needs, including safe, drinkable water year-round. If you’re considering making the switch, start by assessing your water usage, roof size, and rainfall. Then consult with professionals or experienced DIYers to design a system that meets your needs—and your budget. Questions about the costs of a potable rainwater harvesting system for your home ? Please leave them in the comments. Written by Deb Kingsbury Living on a 36-acre off-grid property in northern Arizona, Deb and her husband Jeremy embrace sustainable living through solar power, rainwater harvesting, and a passive solar home built with recycled polystyrene block. A freelance writer and editor, Deb grows food in raised beds and a greenhouse and is an avid hiker and backpacker. A long-time search & rescue volunteer, she has published two novels and previously homesteaded on the East Coast.

Home Rainwater Harvesting and Filtration System Disclosure :  Some of the links on this page are affiliate links, and I may earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase. Written by Deb Kingsbury Living on a 36-acre off-grid property in northern Arizona, Deb and her husband Jeremy embrace sustainable living through solar power, rainwater harvesting, and a passive solar home built with recycled polystyrene block. A freelance writer and editor, Deb grows food in raised beds and a greenhouse and is an avid hiker and backpacker. A long-time search & rescue volunteer, she has published two novels and previously homesteaded on the East Coast. Collecting and filtering rainwater is a sustainable practice that can significantly reduce your dependence on external water sources. With a few simple, cost-effective do-it-yourself (DIY) methods, you can help ensure your harvested rainwater is clean and safe for various household uses. Here are some practical steps to help you set up an effective rainwater filtration system. 1. First Flush Diverter First-flush diverters, also called roof washers, are essential for any rainwater harvesting system . Their main purpose is to redirect the initial flow of rainwater, which typically contains roof contaminants like dirt, leaves, insects, and bird droppings. First flush diverter aka roof washer Materials Needed: Vertical PVC Drain Pipe - This will be the main body of the diverter. Plain T PVC Pipe Fitting - To connect the drain pipe to the rest of the system. 90 Degree PVC Pipe Fitting - To direct the flow of water. Threaded PVC Access Coupling - For easy access and maintenance. Threaded PVC Cap with O-Ring or Ball Valve - To seal the bottom of the diverter. Floating Ball - This ball is placed inside the diverter chamber. As the first flush of water fills the chamber, the ball rises with the water level. Ball Seat - Once the chamber is full, the ball seats itself at the top of the chamber, preventing any more water from entering the diverter. This ensures that only the cleaner water flows into the main storage tank. Non-Pressure PVC Cement (Glue) - To secure all the fittings together. OR, you can purchase a first flush diverter kit with all the parts and pieces and just add the vertical pipe. This first flush diverter has a slow-release valve that automatically drains the chamber while in use, keeping it ready for the next rainfall. To install a DIY first flush diverter, you need to set up a T-junction in your downspout. Attach a vertical pipe with a removable end cap or ball valve to this junction. As rain fills the pipe, the ball rises and eventually seals it, allowing cleaner water to pass through into your storage tank. This simple setup ensures that the dirtiest water is diverted away from your clean water supply. Here's a good how-to video about building your own DIY first-flush diverter... 2. Sand and Gravel Filter A sand and gravel filter is an excellent method for removing larger particles and sediments from your collected rainwater. It’s a straightforward system that you can set up with readily available materials. Materials Needed: Large container Coarse gravel Fine gravel Sand Spigot Container Selection: For the large container, you can use a  food-grade plastic barrel  or bucket or a  large plastic storage bin . These containers are durable, easy to clean, and readily available. Make sure the container is large enough to hold the layers of gravel and sand and has a lid to prevent contamination. Another option is a food-grade bucket with a spigot already included. Setting Up the Filter: Drill a hole  near the bottom of the container for the outlet. Attach a spigot or faucet to this hole to allow easy access to the filtered water. Layering : Start with a layer of coarse gravel at the bottom, followed by a layer of fine gravel, and finally, a top layer of sand. The layers should be thick enough to effectively filter the water but leave enough space for the water to flow through. Using the Filter: Pour the collected rainwater into the top of the filter. The water will pass through the sand and gravel layers, which will trap and remove debris and larger particles. The filtered water will collect at the bottom of the container and can be accessed through the spigot . 3. Charcoal Filter Charcoal filters are known for their ability to adsorb odors, chemicals, and various impurities, significantly improving the taste and quality of your rainwater. You can either buy activated charcoal or make your own by heating regular charcoal. Materials Needed: Activated charcoal or regular charcoal Container with a mesh bottom Container to catch filtered water Container Selection: For the container with a mesh bottom, you can use a  stainless steel colander  or a  plastic colander . These containers are designed to allow water to pass through while holding the charcoal in place. Ensure the mesh is fine enough to prevent the charcoal from falling through but still allow water to flow freely. Setting Up the Filter: Place the charcoal in the colander. Position the colander over a larger container to catch the filtered water. Pour the collected rainwater through the charcoal layer in the colander. The water will pass through the charcoal, which will adsorb impurities and improve the water’s quality. 4. Simple Solar Still A simple solar still is an effective DIY method that uses solar energy to distill water, removing impurities and pathogens. This method might be a bit more labor-intensive, but is worth the effort for the purity of the water it produces. Materials Needed: Shovel Clear plastic sheet Small container Small rock To build a solar still, dig a pit and place a container at its center. Cover the pit with clear plastic, making sure it slopes toward the container. Place a small rock on the plastic above the container to create a drip point for condensation. As the sun heats the pit, water evaporates, condenses on the plastic, and drips into the container, leaving contaminants behind. 5. Ceramic Filters Ceramic filters are highly effective at filtering out bacteria and fine particles from your rainwater. They are simple to use and require minimal maintenance. Materials Needed: Ceramic filter (This is a ceramic bucket water filter kit) Bucket or container To set up a ceramic filter, place it in a bucket or another container. Pour the rainwater through the ceramic filter and allow it to pass through slowly. The porous nature of the ceramic material traps bacteria and other small particles, providing you with clean, safe water for household use. Potable Rainwater Storage Proper storage of your filtered rainwater is crucial to maintain its quality and prevent contamination. Using food-grade barrels or tanks is highly recommended for this purpose. Ensure your storage containers are always covered to keep out debris and insects. Additionally, use a rain barrel screen at the water inlet or mesh cover to further prevent any unwanted particles from entering the storage tank. Keeping your storage containers clean and covered will help maintain the quality of your harvested rainwater over time. Maintenance Tips Regular maintenance is essential to ensure the efficiency of your rainwater filtration system. Here are some tips to keep your system running smoothly: Clean your gutters and downspouts regularly to prevent clogging and contamination. Use downspout gutter guards and leaf filters . Replace filter materials periodically to maintain their effectiveness. Test the quality of your water occasionally to ensure it meets your needs and is safe for use. Recommended Water Filtration and Disinfection Products If the DIY route isn't for you or you need a rainwater filtration and disinfection system that will pass your area's building code, we recommend products like these from U.S. Water Systems , which is what we use in our home (pictured below): Filtration: US Water Big Blue 4.5 X 20 Dual Filtration System Disinfection: Pulsar Quantum Disinfection System - 10 GPM Ensuring Clean Water with DIY Rainwater Filtration Setting up a DIY rainwater filtration system doesn't have to be expensive or complicated. With a bit of effort and some basic materials, you can create an effective system that provides clean water for your household. Embrace these cost-effective methods, and you'll be well on your way to a more sustainable and self-sufficient lifestyle. Rainwater Filtering FAQs 1. Why is it important to use a first flush diverter in a rainwater harvesting system? A first flush diverter is crucial because it redirects the initial flow of rainwater, which often contains contaminants like dirt, leaves, and bird droppings from the roof. By diverting this dirty water, you ensure that cleaner water enters your storage tank. 2. How do sand and gravel filters remove particles from rainwater? Sand and gravel filters create layers of coarse gravel, fine gravel, and sand inside a container. As rainwater passes through these layers, larger particles and sediments are trapped, resulting in cleaner water. 3. What are the benefits of using a charcoal filter in rainwater filtration? Charcoal filters effectively absorb odors, chemicals, and various impurities from rainwater. This significantly improves the taste and quality of the water, making it more suitable for household use. 4. How does a simple solar still purify rainwater? A simple solar still uses solar energy to distill water. The still removes impurities and pathogens by evaporating water and then condensing it. The process involves digging a pit, placing a container at the center, covering it with clear plastic, and allowing condensation to drip into the container. 5. What are the key maintenance tips for a DIY rainwater filtration system? To maintain an efficient rainwater filtration system, you should regularly clean gutters and downspouts, replace filter materials periodically, and test the quality of your water occasionally. These steps ensure that your system continues to provide clean and safe water.

The choices we make every day—what we eat, wear, and buy—affect not just our personal health but also the environment we all share. So, what if there was a way to align our well-being with the planet's health? This is the heart of sustainable wellness, a topic explored beautifully by wholistic health practitioner Melissa Tohlakai in her video, "Sustainable Wellness: The Intersection of Health and Environmental Responsibility,"  from her streaming show The Natural Path . In this post, I’ll share some ways that sustainable choices can transform our health and the environment. These actionable tips can help us start or enhance our journeys toward sustainable wellness. And don’t forget to check out Melissa’s video below for deeper insights and practical advice. What Is Sustainable Wellness? Sustainable wellness is the balance between nurturing your health and reducing your environmental footprint. It’s about recognizing the interconnectedness of personal and planetary health—what we do to the earth directly impacts us. Melissa describes this as the reflection between the microcosm  (our bodies) and the macrocosm  (the environment). By making small, mindful changes, we can tread more lightly on the planet while enhancing our well-being. 5 Actionable Steps to Embrace Sustainable Wellness Here are some practical ways to get started: 1. Rethink What You Consume Ask yourself before purchasing: Do I really need this? Opt for sustainable and organic options. For example, choose items grown without harmful chemicals or excessive resource use when buying produce. Reduce reliance on heavily processed foods and opt for local, in-season produce to cut down on food miles. 2. Minimize Chemical Exposure Switch to natural cleaning products like vinegar and baking soda to reduce your exposure to harsh chemicals and pollutants. Choose skincare and personal care products with minimal ingredients and sustainable packaging. Look for shampoo bars or refillable containers to cut down on waste. 3. Grow Your Own Food Start with small raised garden beds or no-dig gardens to grow vegetables, herbs, or fruits at home. Compost kitchen scraps to nourish your soil, reducing waste while improving the quality of your home-grown produce. If space is limited, consider container gardening or even windowsill herb pots. 4. Make Conscious Building Choices Avoid materials that release harmful chemicals into your home, such as pressed wood products with formaldehyde-based adhesives. Explore repurposing materials or sourcing second-hand items for home projects. For example, Melissa repurposed filing cabinets as raised garden beds—an innovative and sustainable idea! 5. Reduce Plastic Use Bring reusable bags, jars, or containers when shopping. Avoid single-use plastics by buying in bulk or choosing minimally packaged goods. Opt for sustainable alternatives like beeswax wraps instead of plastic wrap. Why These Changes Matter The choices we make in daily life have a ripple effect. From reducing waste to improving soil health and lowering greenhouse gas emissions, every small effort contributes to a healthier environment. Even better, sustainable habits can save money and simplify your life while enhancing your health. Watch: Sustainable Wellness with Melissa Tohlakai For a deeper dive into sustainable wellness and how to make impactful choices, watch Melissa Tohlakai’s insightful video , Sustainable Wellness: The Intersection of Health and Environmental Responsibility . She covers topics like: The environmental and health effects of intensive farming and monocropping. Tips for reducing your exposure to harmful chemicals in your home and diet. The benefits of adopting practices like composting, regenerative agriculture, and more. Your Next Step Toward Sustainable Living Small steps add up, whether it’s growing your own food, reducing waste, or supporting local farmers. As Melissa says, "Every little change makes a difference."  So start where you are—be it swapping one product for a more sustainable option or rethinking your weekly grocery list. Together, we can create a healthier planet for future generations while taking control of our own well-being.

Disclosure :  Some of the links on this page are affiliate links, and I may earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase. Written by Deb Kingsbury Living on a 36-acre off-grid property in northern Arizona, Deb and her husband Jeremy embrace sustainable living through solar power, rainwater harvesting, and a passive solar home built with recycled polystyrene block. A freelance writer and editor, Deb grows food in raised beds and a greenhouse and is an avid hiker and backpacker. A long-time search & rescue volunteer, she has published two novels and previously homesteaded on the East Coast. We looked into rammed earth and strawbale. We considered cob and adobe brick. And earthship construction. And hempcrete and repurposed shipping containers, too. You name it, and if it was an innovative, sustainable building material, we probably explored it for the home we were planning to build at 36-Acre Wood . Then the architect who was designing our passive solar, off-grid house with a potable rainwater system  introduced us to what was behind his own plastered and stuccoed walls: insulated concrete forms (ICF) , specifically EF Block™ in our case (EF = Earth Friendly). As we had with the other materials, we weighed the pros and cons—there were more of the former than the latter for us—and we were sold. In a world increasingly focused on sustainability, builders and homeowners, including owner-builders like us, are seeking innovative solutions that combine environmental consciousness with structural integrity, not to mention affordability. Enter ICF block —a game-changer in sustainable construction. These innovative building materials combine the strength of concrete with the insulating properties of recycled foam. In this blog post, we’ll cover what ICF blocks are, how they’re made, their properties, how to build with them, and the pros and cons. ICF Block Table of Contents What Are Insulated Concrete Forms (ICFs)? How Are ICF Blocks Made? Properties of ICF Blocks How To Build with ICF Block ICF Pros and Cons Types of ICF Block What Can ICF Block Be Used For? More About EF Block™ Where Else To Buy ICF Block What Are Insulated Concrete Forms (ICFs)? ICF blocks are a construction system that uses rigid formwork to create reinforced concrete walls. They consist of lightweight interlocking foam blocks that serve as insulation and formwork to create the skeleton of your building. Once the blocks are in place, concrete is poured into their hollow centers, resulting in a sturdy, well-insulated, energy-efficient structure. But here’s the twist—they’re not just any foam; they’re made from recycled expanded polystyrene (EPS) , commonly known as Styrofoam. So, instead of it ending up in the landfill and sitting there for about 500 years, you can build a very well-insulated, durable, and fire-resistant home with it, among other things. How Are ICF Blocks Made? As mentioned, the blocks are primarily made from recycled Styrofoam (8% in the case of EF Block). The EPS foam is molded into interlocking sections, resembling oversized Lego bricks, with minimal waste.  These blocks are lightweight—our 5-foot x 1-foot x 10” blocks weigh about 45 lbs each—easy to handle, and provide excellent thermal insulation. The interlocking design simplifies installation, making it a favorite among DIY builders and some general contractors we know who appreciate efficiency and sustainability. Properties of ICF Blocks When it comes to sustainable construction, ICF stands out. These foam blocks offer more than meets the eye. 🏗️🌿 Structural Strength and Durability : ICF construction combines the strength of concrete with the insulation properties of foam, resulting in robust and durable walls. Energy Efficiency : ICF walls offer exceptional thermal performance. The foam insulation keeps indoor temperatures stable, reducing your reliance on heating and cooling systems. Our EF Blocks have an R rating of 40.  Soundproofing : The foam insulation dampens sound, creating quieter indoor spaces. Fire Resistance : ICF walls are fire-resistant, protecting against flames and high temperatures. Air-Sealing : The snug fit of the interlocking blocks creates airtight walls, minimizing drafts and keeping your home comfortable year-round. Affordability : At least when we were building, ICF construction cost considerably less than lumber. Including the rebar and concrete pours, our cost was about $7 per linear foot.  Flexibility : While they don’t actually bend, ICF blocks lend themselves to creative designs, including arches, curves, and even sculpted walls. How To Build with ICF Block So, you’ve decided to embrace sustainable construction and dive into the world of ICF. But wait—aren’t these high-tech foam blocks reserved for seasoned contractors?  No, ICFs aren’t just for the pros; they’re also a friendly companion for owner-builders . With a relatively small learning curve (which the company we purchased from provides upon request), ICF blocks are easy to work with and forgiving, too, if you make a mistake. So, with a dash of education and a sprinkle of determination, you can stack ICFs like a pro in no time. 🌱🔨 Here are the basic steps: Foundation : Start by laying ICF blocks for the foundation and stem wall. It’s like assembling a giant puzzle but with more concrete and fewer missing pieces. The blocks can be joined with mortar, like brick-laying, or with a special glue. Wall Construction : To reuse the analogy, stack the ICF blocks like Lego bricks. Ours are offset like a brick wall, but we’ve seen a large home built with ICF blocks by stacking them in line, directly on top of each other. Reinforcing steel (rebar) is placed inside the blocks to enhance structural integrity. Pouring Concrete : Once the blocks are in place, pour concrete into the hollow cores. The concrete bonds with the foam, creating a solid wall. Note that we built our ICF in stages, beginning with the stem wall and then going up about four or five layers of block at a time. We did this due to county code requirements, with an inspection at each level. Finishing : After curing, you can finish the walls with various materials, such as stucco, siding, or plaster. ICF Pros and Cons The pros have the upper hand here. Pros of ICF Construction: Strength : ICF walls are robust and resistant to natural disasters. ICF homes feel secure… because they are. Material Efficiency : Earth-friendly ICFs use less concrete compared to some traditional methods. ICFs reduce waste and promote recycling. Time-Saving : ICFs speed up the building process with their quick installation due to interlocking blocks.  Energy Savings : Excellent insulation reduces heating and cooling costs. (Our passive solar ICF home stays comfortably warm in the winter, even in freezing temps, without additional heat. The only time we use the wood stove is when we have a stretch of two or more cloudy days with freezing temps.)  Quietude : Enjoy peace and quiet (unless maybe your closest neighbor plays the bagpipes). ICF block doesn’t block all outside sound, of course (and I don’t think anyone would want it to), but it does dampen it quite a lot. We often don’t even hear the noisy UPS truck drive up.  Cons of ICF Construction: Cost : ICF construction can be slightly more expensive upfront than some other methods (but less than others). Learning Curve : Contractors and owner-builders need some training to work with ICFs effectively. Curing Time : Concrete curing may take longer due to insulation. Types of ICF Block Insulated concrete forms come in various categories: Flat-Panel ICFs : These ICFs consist of flat panels that interlock to create the formwork. They’re versatile and suitable for both residential and commercial projects. Grid Systems : Grid-style ICFs have a grid pattern, allowing for precise placement of reinforcing steel (rebar). They’re popular for walls with complex shapes. Block-and-Panel Systems : These combine the benefits of flat panels and traditional block forms. The panels provide insulation, while the blocks offer structural support. The EF Block™ we used leans toward the block-and-panel approach, emphasizing insulation and strength. Post-and-Beam ICFs : These ICFs are designed for larger spans, such as creating arches or vaulted ceilings. They use vertical posts and horizontal beams. Tapered ICFs : Tapered forms allow for curved walls, making them ideal for unique structures. They’re often used in custom homes and artistic projects. What Can ICF Block Be Used For? If it can be built, it can probably be built with ICF blocks. While they're primarily used in construction to create energy-efficient and resilient buildings, they can also be used in various other creative ways. Here are some common applications: Residential Construction : ICFs are widely used to build energy-efficient homes. They can be used for single-story residential and commercial buildings, high-rise projects, basements, underground homes, or entire multi-story homes. Some builders use only insulated concrete foundation forms and combine them with other building methods above ground. Commercial Buildings : ICFs have found applications in commercial construction, particularly for structures that require strong thermal performance and fire resistance. Commercial ICF construction has strict standards, codes, budgets, and timelines to follow. Multi-story Buildings : ICF blocks have been used for walls surpassing 40 feet of unsupported height. The tallest ICF structure is a 23-story building in Waterloo, Ontario. Disaster-Resistant Buildings : Due to their strength and durability, ICFs are often used in regions subject to regular hurricanes. They exceed safety, resilience, and durability requirements for FEMA-ATFP Federal Military Standards. Custom Homes and Specialty Projects : ICFs can also be used for custom homes and specialty projects with unique, creative designs. We’ve also seen ICF blocks used to create public benches and planters, and we’ve used leftover blocks for these applications on our own property. Here are some ways ICF block lends itself to unique, creative designs: Flexibility in Design : ICFs are flexible and can accommodate most any size or style of design a homeowner or architect can dream up. They're simple to cut and shape. Customized Architectural Effects : ICFs can include customized architectural effects, such as curved walls, large openings, long ceiling spans, custom angles, and cathedral ceilings. This allows for the creation of unique and aesthetically pleasing designs. Sculptural Walls : The strength and flexibility of concrete allow ICFs to be used for creating sculptural walls. These can be custom-designed and shaped to fit the specific needs of a project. Outdoor Structures : Beyond buildings, ICFs can also be used for constructing outdoor structures like benches, planters, and even sculptural elements. Their durability makes them suitable for these applications. Artistic Designs : Creative and artistic architects design unique and beautiful structures that reflect the owners and culture. ICFs provide a superior architectural design solution for any home or building style. More About EF Block™ EF BlockTM is an innovative ICF product manufactured by Earth Friendly Building Materials LLC (EFBM), established in 1990. These blocks are easy to stack and shape, allowing for versatile construction designs. EFBM, based in Arizona, has been involved with over 10,000 completed ICF projects throughout the US and Mexico. While most ICF products share the same qualities, we chose EF BlockTM because the company's owners happened to have a home in our area and were very responsive to our calls and emails. They connected us with a local subcontractor who’d built his own home with their ICF product and was able to assist us with ours.  Here are the details about EF BlockTM: Built-in Thermal Insulation : EF BlockTM has thermal insulative qualities equivalent to an R-40 insulation rating. Hurricane (Wind) Resistance : These blocks are 700% stronger than a typical 2x6 frame with a 1/2-inch shear wall. Mold and Mildew Resistance : EF BlockTM keeps your home mold-free and fresh. Fire Resistance : EF BlockTM has a 4-hour fire rating, which is beneficial for those who live in an area at risk from wildfires. Easy Installation : EF BlockTM is fairly easy to install, saving construction time and labor costs. Bug Resistance:  Termites won’t nibble on these blocks. Green Building Material : Made from 87% recycled post-consumer Styrofoam, EF BlockTM is a sustainable choice. Other ICF brands may have different features, shapes, and sizes. Some emphasize ease of installation, while others prioritize specific performance characteristics. For more information about this type of ICF block, as well as the Earth Friendly Building Material’s gallery , training program, and their role as Arizona’s #1 EPS recycler, check out their website at EFBM.com . (Note that we’re not affiliated with this company in any way and don’t earn any commission if you click this link and end up purchasing from them. We’re simply past customers who were happy with their service and very happy with the product.) . Where Else To Buy ICF Block If you’re looking to purchase i nsulated concrete forms   for your construction project, here are some other retailers and stores, among many, that sell and ship them: ICF Supply Co. BuildBlock Building Systems Alibaba Insulated Concrete Form Supply Inc. eBay Amvic Building Systems ICF blocks aren’t just building materials; they’re a sustainable lifestyle choice. So, whether you’re constructing a cozy cottage or a modern mansion, consider the ICF alternative.   🌿🏠🔨 ICF Block FAQs What is ICF block, and why is it considered a sustainable building solution? ICF (Insulated Concrete Form) blocks are high-tech foam blocks used in construction. They provide excellent insulation, reduce heating and cooling costs, use less concrete than traditional methods, and promote recycling, making them a sustainable building solution. How do you construct a wall using ICF blocks? To construct a wall with ICF blocks, you start by laying the blocks for the foundation and stem wall. Stack the blocks like Lego bricks, place reinforcing steel (rebar) inside, and then pour concrete into the hollow cores. Finish the walls with stucco, siding, or plaster after the concrete cures. What are the pros and cons of using ICF blocks in construction? Pros include strength, material efficiency, time-saving, energy savings, and noise reduction. Cons include a higher upfront cost, a learning curve for proper installation, and potentially longer concrete curing times due to insulation. What types of ICF blocks are available for different construction needs? Types of ICF blocks include Flat-Panel ICFs, Grid Systems, Block-and-Panel Systems, Post-and-Beam ICFs, and Tapered ICFs. Each type offers different benefits, such as versatility, structural support, and the ability to create unique designs. What are some common applications for ICF blocks in construction? ICF blocks are used in residential construction, commercial buildings, multi-story buildings, disaster-resistant buildings, and custom homes. They can also be used for outdoor structures, public benches, planters, and sculptural elements.

Disclosure :  Some of the links on this page are affiliate links, and I may earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase. Winter can be a challenging season if you’re harvesting rainwater for year-round use. Freezing temps threaten your rain barrels, cisterns, and water cubes, potentially leading to damage or inaccessible (frozen) water. Fortunately, with a few strategies and the right tools, you can keep your rainwater collection system functional and flowing all year. In this post, I’ll share some tips, tools, and products to help you keep your rainwater containers—barrels, totes (a/k/a cubes), cisterns, etc.—and spigots from freezing. Why Protect Rainwater Barrels from Freezing? Rainwater harvesting systems aren’t just about collecting water—they’re about saving it for use when you need it. When water freezes, it expands. This can crack barrels, burst cisterns, and warp water cubes, potentially leading to pricey repairs or replacements. Even if your container doesn’t break, frozen water is obviously unusable when needed, whether for irrigation, cleaning, drinking, or other household uses. Keeping your rainwater barrels from freezing also ensures your system is ready to catch and store more water during winter thaws or early spring rains. Tips for Keeping Rainwater from Freezing 1. Choose Insulated Rain Barrels or Add Insulation Insulation is one of the simplest ways to protect your rain barrels or water cubes from freezing. Wrapping your container in insulating materials can significantly reduce heat loss. What to Use: Bubble Wrap Insulation:  A cost-effective way to cover barrels. Look for heavy-duty, UV-resistant options like Reflectix Double Bubble Insulation . Barrel Covers:  Products like IBC Tote Covers  are specifically designed for this purpose. Spigot Covers : We use insulated outdoor faucet covers for all of the above-ground spigots on our barrels and tanks. 2. Keep Water Moving Circulating water is less likely to freeze. Installing a small pump or aerator in your rain barrel or cistern can keep water moving enough to prevent freezing. Product Suggestion: Solar-Powered Fountain Pumps:  A simple fountain pump like the AISITIN 3.5W Solar Fountain Pump  can work for small barrels. Submersible Aquarium Pumps:  Reliable and affordable options include the Tetra Whisper Submersible Pump . 3. Install a Heating Element If you live in an area with prolonged freezing temperatures, adding a heating element can provide some peace of mind. These devices gently warm the water, keeping it liquid without excessive energy use. Product Suggestion: Stock Tank Heaters:  A 1500-watt floating de-icer   works well for larger cisterns or cubes, while a 500-watt de-icer can work for containers up to 50 gallons. Like those linked here, just be sure that a de-icer can be used with the type of tank (metal, plastic, etc.) that you have. Heated Barrel Wraps:  Options like the Beamnova Drum Heater  are suitable for 55-gallon drums. 4. Bury or Partially Submerge Containers Earth is a natural insulator, maintaining a stable temperature even in winter. If feasible, bury or partially submerge your rainwater cistern or cube. Tip:  Combine this method with insulation to maximize protection. Choosing the Right Method for Your System Not every solution works for every setup. Here’s a quick guide to match your rainwater collection container with the best freeze-protection strategies: Container Type Best Methods Rain Barrels Insulation, heating wraps, moving water Water Cisterns Stock tank heaters, partial burial Water Cubes Insulation, indoor storage Bonus: Repurpose Overflow in Winter While protecting rainwater from freezing, don’t forget about overflow. Winter rains can still fill your system. Use overflow water for: Irrigating evergreen plants Creating ice-free zones in birdbaths Cleaning tools, vehicles, etc. Product Suggestion: Flexible Overflow Kits:  An overflow adapter kit  can help channel excess water for other uses. Winter-Proofing Your Rainwater Barrels: How to Keep Them from Freezing Rainwater harvesting doesn’t have to stop when temperatures drop. With the right tools, techniques, and a little prep, you can protect your rain barrels, cisterns, and cubes from freezing and keep your system functional all winter. Whether it’s insulating your containers, adding a heater, or simply moving smaller systems indoors, there’s a solution (or combination of solutions) for every setup. Written by Deb Kingsbury Living on a 36-acre off-grid property in northern Arizona, Deb and her husband Jeremy embrace sustainable living through solar power, rainwater harvesting, and a passive solar home built with recycled polystyrene block. A freelance writer and editor, Deb grows food in raised beds and a greenhouse and is an avid hiker and backpacker. A long-time search & rescue volunteer, she has published two novels and previously homesteaded on the East Coast.

Disclosure :  Some of the links on this page are affiliate links, and I may earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase. Rainwater harvesting is a great way to conserve municipal water, reduce utility bills, and create a backup water supply or—like our system here at 36-Acre Wood—even a primary water supply for your entire home. Whether you want to use rainwater for drinking, gardening, or other household needs, you might have questions about how to get started, maintain your system, and ensure water quality. In this post, I’ll address some of the most common questions I get about rainwater harvesting for both potable and non-potable uses and recommend some products we use for our system. FAQ 1: What Is Rainwater Harvesting? Simply put, rainwater harvesting for home use is the process of collecting and storing rainwater. Systems range from basic setups like barrels under gutters and downspouts to more advanced systems with larger cisterns, filtration, and disinfection for potable water. It’s a versatile solution for reducing reliance on municipal water and supporting sustainable living, even in arid areas like here in Northern Arizona. We've been able to meet all of our daily and annual household and garden water needs with rainwater collected from our house and workshop roofs, stored in three partially buried and interlinked 5,000-gallon tanks (pictured here) and several overflow barrels and water totes. FAQ 2: Is Rainwater Safe for Drinking? Rainwater can definitely be safe to drink (potable), but it should be properly collected, filtered, and treated if that's what you'll use it for. Contaminants like debris, bird droppings, and roof materials can all affect water quality, so a multi-step filtration system ensures the water is clean and safe for consumption. Have a look at our filtration and disinfection units here. On a related note: What is the best roofing material for a potable rainwater collection system? The answer: Metal roofs with an enamel finish are often considered the best choice. They provide high collection efficiency and minimal contamination. There are also other suitable roofing materials for rainwater harvesting. Here's a helpful page on Harvesting Rainwater from Roofs from the University of Idaho. Recommended Products for Potable Use: First Flush Diverter:  After the rainwater passes through gutter guards and downspout screens, you can use a first flush diverter (aka roof washer) to further prevent contaminants from the initial rainfall from entering your system. You can buy a first flush diverter kit or make one yourself. (See one of ours pictured here.) Water Filters : After entering your home, the rainwater can pass through a filtration system to capture any dirt, sand, silt, dust, rust, and other small particles that made their way past the first flush. A filter system can also eliminate cloudiness, bad taste, and odors. They're effective on VOCs like pesticides, herbicides, and industrial solvents. We use the US Water Big Blue Dual Filtration System (pictured above), which is mounted in our utility room. UV or Quantum Disinfection:  After the filters, a disinfection unit kills bacteria and viruses. We use the Pulsar from U.S. Water Systems (pictured above), which doesn't require UV light or power. FAQ 3: How Do I Filter Rainwater for Potable Use? This is a partial repeat of FAQ 2, but... To make rainwater safe for drinking, you can use a combination of filters and purification methods in this order: Screen out roof debris:  Install mesh screens on your gutters and downspouts. Use a first flush diverter:  Direct initial dirty water away from your collection system. Apply fine filtration:  Add a filtration system in your home to remove smaller particles. Sterilize the water:  After filtration, use UV purification or non-electric quantum disinfection to kill microorganisms. Recommended Products: Mesh Gutter Guards and Downspout Filters:  Prevent leaves and debris from clogging your system. Check out a variety of gutter and downspout screens on Amazon and choose the size and type to fit your gutters. First Flush Diverters : Remove the initial "dirty" water from each rain before it enters your tanks or barrels by using a roof washer kit or make your own DIY first flush diverter . Carbon Filters for Rainwater Systems:  There are a number of effective options, like the US Water Big Blue Dual Filtration System (which is what we use) and the iSpring WGB32BM . Disinfection Filters: You can use an Ultraviolet Light Disinfection System or non-electric quantum disinfection with a unit like the Pulsar . FAQ 4: Can I Use Rainwater for Non-Potable Purposes? Absolutely! Non-potable uses are the most common applications for rainwater harvesting. Examples include: Gardening and Irrigation:  Rainwater is naturally soft and chemical-free, making it ideal for plants. Washing Vehicles:  Soft rainwater prevents water spots. Flushing Toilets:  Use collected water to reduce household water consumption. Recommended Products for Non-Potable Use: Hose Attachments for Rain Barrels:  Make watering plants easy. Check out the Rain Barrel Diverter Kit with a 3/4 Inch Spigot Kit and Bulkhead Fitting . Pressure Boosting Pumps:  For a smooth water flow, you can use a transfer pump like this one from VEVOR . FAQ 5: How Much Water Can I Collect? The amount of rainwater you can harvest depends on your roof size, rainfall (and snowfall) in your area, and the efficiency of your system. On average, one inch of rain on a 1,000-square-foot roof yields about 600 gallons of water. You can use a rainwater collection calculator like this one from BlueBarrel Systems to estimate potential yields. FAQ 6: Do I Need a Permit to Harvest Rainwater? Rainwater harvesting regulations vary by location. In some areas, permits are required, especially for large systems (that's the case here in Coconino County, AZ, where we have a permitted potable rainwater collection system). Check your local government’s guidelines or water board for specifics. FAQ 7: How Do I Maintain My Rainwater System? Proper maintenance ensures your system remains efficient and hygienic. Here’s a checklist: Clean Gutters Regularly:  Prevent debris from entering your system. Flush Out Tanks:  Rinse barrels and cisterns annually. Replace Filters:  Change filters as per the manufacturer’s recommendations. We recommend U.S. Water Systems for replacement filters for a variety of units. FAQ 8: What Are the Best Storage Containers for Rainwater Harvesting? Common options include barrels, cisterns, and water cubes like IBC totes. Each has pros and cons: Recommended Products: Rainwater Barrels:  Barrels are generally affordable and easy to install. Options like this Happygrill collapsible barrel with spigot  and the BPA-free Blue Water Barrel  are durable and effective, and you can add a spigot  to any other barrel you choose. If you're not harvesting rainwater for potable use, you can use a wider variety of containers for collection and storage. Water Totes : These cube containers are portable, durable, and space-efficient. We use stackable IBC totes  for some of our overflow storage (you can often find used totes for sale locally—just be sure to find out what was in them beforehand) and then use IBC tote covers  to help prevent algae from forming inside the cube and prevent freezing also (see the photo below, showing our covered tote for collecting rainwater off our greenhouse). Polyethylene Storage Tanks : For larger-scale collection and greater storage capacity like we have and potable use, we recommend vertical tanks like this one  from Norwesco. They come in a range of sizes in black or green, limiting light penetration and reducing the growth of water-borne algae. FAQ 9: How Do I Winterize My Rainwater System? You can protect your system from freezing by: Draining or insulating small barrels. Insulating and/or partially burying large tanks or cisterns. (If you want to bury a tank completely, be sure to get one that's designed for that purpose.) Using tank heaters or de-icers. Our large, partially buried polyethylene tanks with their outlets below the frost line don't tend to freeze due to the volume of water and the frequently sunny winter days. While they do sometimes get a layer of ice on the top of the water during occasional stretches of cloudy, extremely cold weather, that ice usually melts quickly and has never presented a problem in our system. Recommended Products: Barrel Covers:  You can try a black barrel cover or reflective bubble insulation . We've had luck with both, but even most of our coldest days are sunny. Floating De-Icers:  The Farm Innovators Floating or Submergible Heater  is effective for larger tanks. Here's more detail on how to keep rainwater barrels from freezing . FAQ 10: What Should I Do About Water Tank Overflow? Depending on your needs and space, you can create several types of overflow systems. Some work best for gardens, while others are ideal for additional storage. The different types are: Basic Spillover Overflow : The simplest option, a spillover overflow, uses a pipe installed near the top of the tank or barrel. When the tank fills, the water flows through the pipe, which directs it away from the tank base. (See one of our spillover setups below.) Secondary Rainwater Storage Overflow : For those who want to capture even more rainwater, a secondary storage overflow system allows excess water to fill another tank. You can connect as many tanks or barrels this way as you want. Garden Irrigation Overflow : This overflow directs water from your tank to garden beds or plants, making it perfect for anyone creating a self-sustaining watering system. French Drain Rainwater Collection Overflow : For larger systems or those with significant overflow volumes, a French drain setup disperses overflow into the ground, preventing pooling and soil erosion. See more details on DIY water tank overflows here . Simplifying Rainwater Harvesting for Home Use Rainwater harvesting offers a sustainable way to reduce water consumption and create a more sustainable lifestyle. Whether you’re collecting rainwater for drinking, gardening, or household use, the right tools and strategies can make the process simple and effective. Explore our recommended products and start building a rainwater harvesting system that works for you—potable or non-potable, it’s a step toward sustainable living. Do you have any other questions about rainwater harvesting or the system we use? Leave a comment below. Written by Deb Kingsbury Living on a 36-acre off-grid property in northern Arizona, Deb and her husband Jeremy embrace sustainable living through solar power, rainwater harvesting, and a passive solar home built with recycled polystyrene block. A freelance writer and editor, Deb grows food in raised beds and a greenhouse and is an avid hiker and backpacker. A long-time search & rescue volunteer, she has published two novels  and previously homesteaded on the East Coast.

Disclaimer: I get a commission for purchases made through some of the links in this post. Living in northern Arizona, where water is precious and often scarce, we've found an abundance in our skies. Through rainwater harvesting, we collect, filter, and use only the water that falls on our roofs, including the house, the workshop, the greenhouse, and a few other small structures on the property—enough to meet all our home and garden needs, year-round. In a region known more for drought than downpours, this may sound impossible. But we’re here to share that not only is it possible, it’s practical, sustainable, and (because people have asked us) completely legal. What Is Rainwater Harvesting? Rainwater harvesting is the process of collecting and storing rainwater and snow(melt) that falls on rooftops, land surfaces, or other catchment areas. In most home systems, the water is captured from the roof via gutters and downspouts and directed into storage tanks or cisterns. With proper filtration and treatment , this water can be used for everything from irrigation to drinking and bathing. In Arizona, where every drop counts, rainwater harvesting has become both a survival strategy and a lifestyle choice. Is Rainwater Harvesting Legal in Arizona? Yes, rainwater harvesting is completely legal in Arizona . In fact, the state encourages it. Arizona passed legislation in 2012 clarifying that individuals may collect and use rainwater on their property. This contrasts with some other western states like Colorado, which, until recently, had strict restrictions on rainwater collection. However, laws are shifting as drought becomes more common in more places and water resources dwindle. It’s always important to check local and state regulations and building codes, especially if you're installing a large-scale system or plan to use the water for potable purposes. Can You Really Collect Enough Rainwater in Arizona? Yes, you can— even in an arid climate like northern Arizona . We’re proof of that. With strategic system design and efficient water usage, we’re able to live entirely on rainwater we collect ourselves. Here’s how we do it: Roof Catchment Area : Between our house and shop/garage, our metal roof area is about 3,000 square feet. For every inch of rain that falls (and for every 10 inches of snow), we can collect around 1,869 gallons of water. Over the past few years, we've recorded about 13 inches of liquid precipitation (some of that being melted snow) at our home. Storage Capacity : We have an interconnected cistern system with a capacity of over 15,000 gallons. This ensures we can store enough during the rainy seasons (i.e., the summer monsoons) to get through the drier months. Filtration & Purification : After collection from our roofs, water passes through first flush diverters (aka roof washers) before entering storage tanks and then through a filtration system and a quantum disinfection system inside the house for potable use, which doesn't require a power source or UV light (other than the pump, which, for us, is a Grundfos Scala2 ). Water Conservation Habits : From low-flow fixtures to mindful gardening with the use of rainwater tank overflow and mulch, every choice we make is designed to stretch every drop. Over the past few years here at 36-Acre Wood, according to our simple rain gauge , we've received around 13 inches of rain and snowmelt, most of it concentrated in the months of July through September. (Up the road, about 15 miles to the north and south, the averages are more like 20 and nine inches, respectively.) With good planning and enough storage, we’ve haven't had to supplement with hauled water. (We have no municipal water where we live.) Benefits of Rainwater Harvesting in Arizona There are many benefits to harvesting rainwater, especially in Arizona: Reduces Demand on Limited Water Sources : Many areas in Arizona rely on overdrawn aquifers or imported water from the Colorado River. Improves Landscape Health : Rainwater is free of salts and chemicals found in some tap water, making it ideal for gardens. Saves Money : While there's certainly a cost to installing the system in the first place, reducing or eliminating your water bill can lead to long-term savings, especially in rural areas where water must be hauled in. Increases Self-Sufficiency : In a changing climate, relying on your own water source can provide peace of mind. It's also super-satisfying! Helps with Flood Control : Harvesting reduces runoff and erosion around buildings during heavy rains. How to Set Up a Rainwater Harvesting System Whether you’re starting small or going all in, a basic rainwater harvesting setup in Arizona includes: Catchment Surface : Your roof. Metal roofs are ideal, but others work, too. Gutters and Downspouts : To channel the water. First Flush Diverter : Also known as a roof washer , it helps discard the first flow of water that may carry debris, like bird droppings or dust. Storage Tanks or Cisterns : Sized according to your expected use and rainfall. Filtration and Disinfection System : Especially if you're using water indoors for potable purposes. Pump and Pressure System : To deliver water where you need it. Note that if you’re planning on using the water indoors, you may want to consult with a professional on filtration and plumbing code compliance. For example, here in Coconino County, Arizona, first flush diverters are required for potable rainwater harvesting systems. Ours was installed during the initial home-building process, so we followed the code to pass the inspection. If you're interested in building a potable rainwater harvesting system for your home , you can check out ours (tips included) as well as how to make your own DIY first flush system . Potable vs Non-Potable Rainwater Use In our home, we use rainwater for both potable (drinking, cooking, bathing)  and non-potable (toilets, laundry, irrigation)  purposes. This is possible because we invested in a proper multi-stage filtration system that includes: Sediment filters Activated carbon Sterilization If you’re only using rainwater for non-potable purposes like gardening, a simpler system can suffice. That said, potable rainwater systems are becoming more common, especially in rural areas like here in Northern Arizona. Rainwater Harvesting Incentives in Arizona Some Arizona cities and counties offer incentives and rebates  to support water conservation efforts, including harvesting systems. For example: Tucson Water  offers up to $2,000 in rebates for passive and active rainwater harvesting systems. Flagstaff  and Prescott  have educational programs and resources to help residents get started. Check with your local water utility or county extension office to see what’s available in your area. Getting Started: Tips for Success If you’re inspired to start harvesting rainwater in Arizona, here are a few tips: Start with your goals : Are you aiming for full off-grid use or just garden irrigation? Understand your rainfall : Know when and how much rain typically falls in your area. Maximize storage : You’ll want enough tank capacity to get you through dry spells. Equalize multi-tank systems: If you're collecting in more than one cistern and linking them together, it's important to keep the overflows on all tanks as close to the same elevation as possible. Learn more about that here . Conserve water : Combine rainwater harvesting with smart water use, including low-flow fixtures, DIY rainwater overflow collection or diversion , and gray water systems, to extend your supply. Educate yourself : Resources like the Arizona Department of Water Resources  and local groups like Coconino County's Sustainable Building Program can help. (We're happy to help, too. Just leave a comment or contact us with any questions.) Final Thoughts Rainwater harvesting in Arizona isn’t just a pipe dream—it’s a smart, sustainable reality. Living entirely off rainwater in northern Arizona has given us a deeper appreciation for our natural resources and a stronger connection to our environment. With a little planning, the right equipment, and a mindset of stewardship, anyone in the Southwest can take advantage of the rain and create a thriving home and garden—no matter how dry it seems. Do you harvest rainwater in an arid area? Please share your experience and suggestions below.

Photo by JasonGillman at Morguefile.com Disclaimer: Some of the links on this page are affiliate links, and I may earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase. Written by Deb Kingsbury Living on a 36-acre off-grid property in northern Arizona, Deb and her husband Jeremy embrace sustainable living through solar power, rainwater harvesting, and a passive solar home built with recycled polystyrene block. They also cultivate food in raised beds and a greenhouse. Deb, who previously homesteaded on the East Coast, is an avid hiker and backpacker, a long-time search and rescue volunteer, and a freelance editor and writer with two published novels. A DIY Guide to Sourcing & Salvaging Wooden Pallets If you're as passionate about sustainable living as we are, you know that repurposing wooden pallets can be a game-changer for keeping your creative and functional projects on the inexpensive and even free side.  Today, we're diving into the nitty-gritty of taking apart and preparing pallets for reuse, repurposing, and upcycling. Whether you're dealing with one pallet, a handful, or a pallet-filled workshop, these tips are for you. The Simple Tools of the Pallet Reclamation Trade Let's start with the basics. For a small number of pallets, all you need are a few simple tools you might already have on hand: a short pry bar , a hammer, and some work gloves (you know, for splinter prevention). First, inspect the pallet for loose nails and remove them. Then, use the pry bar and lift the slats away from the frame.  How To Take Pallets Apart Preserving pallet wood intact can be tricky, especially when it’s been sitting out in the elements for a while—but fear not! It just takes a little finesse and some elbow grease, along with a drop of luck. Step 1: First, t o avoid splintering the pallet wood, focus on the corners, one slat at a time. Place the claw end of the pry bar under the edge of a slat and tap with the hammer to work it under, then start pulling up on the bar. It’s more like jerky tugging than aggressive yanking. You'll probably have to use your foot (or a partner's foot) to steady and hold down the pallet as you pull. Step 2: Once the ends of a slat are loosened, move to the center of the slat. Using the hammer and pry bar method, work up the inner nails. Step 3: When the slat is loosened from end to end, work back and forth along the pallet to pry it off completely. Insert the pry bar carefully into the gaps and apply even pressure.  Patience is key here—take your time to avoid splitting the wood. Slow and steady wins the race, allowing you to salvage both the slats and the frame for all sorts of projects. Step 4: Flip the slat over and tap out the old nails. Handling Pallet Pullers: Tackling Larger Loads Now, if you're dealing with a pallet bonanza, investing in a pallet puller  can be a game-changer. These handy devices make disassembling large quantities much easier, say, if you’re making a pallet accent wall. Just attach the puller to the pallet, give it some muscle, and voila! The pallet comes apart, intact, and ready for its new life. Pro Tip: Have tons of pallets to take apart? Invite your friends and have a pallet-pulling par-tay. Know Your Pallets: A Brief Wood 101 Understanding different types of wood pallets enhances your creative options. Hardwood pallets, usually made from oak or maple, are robust and great for furniture projects. Softwood pallets, often crafted from pine or cedar, are lightweight and perfect for decorative items. If possible, opt for heat-treated (HT) pallets over chemically treated ones to ensure safety for indoor use. Preparing the Reclaimed Pallet Wood Once you’ve taken apart your pallets, it's time to prepare the reclaimed lumber, no matter what the type. Start by removing any remaining nails or staples and sand rough edges.  For a weathered, rustic look, embrace the imperfections. If you prefer a polished finish, a thorough sanding will do the trick.  We’ve found that a medium grit sandpaper  between 60-80 grit is best for pallet wood. Work in the direction of the wood grain. Sanding across the grain leaves scratches, which will be even more obvious if you paint, stain, or varnish afterward. Where and How To Find Free Pallets Now that you're stoked about the prospect of reclaiming used wood pallets, you might be wondering where and how to find them for free—without having to order a ton of bricks (on pallets). There are several types of sources where you can score free pallets: 1. Local Businesses Many local businesses receive goods on pallets and often have a surplus they need to part with. Small retailers, warehouses, and grocery stores are great places to check. Don't be afraid to ask the store manager if they have any pallets they're willing to give away.  Remember those print newspapers people used to have tossed onto their driveways? No? Well, we had a local newspaper place that used to give away loads of pallets, so if you still have one around, that’s another potentially good source. 2. Industrial Areas Industrial areas and manufacturing plants tend to have a surplus of pallets. Drive around these places and you might find pallets stacked outside businesses, free for the taking. That is, always ask for permission before taking pallets from private properties… just in case. 3. Online Marketplaces Websites like Craigslist, Facebook Marketplace, and Freecycle are excellent platforms to find free pallets. People often give away pallets they no longer need. Keep an eye on these sites and act quickly when you find listings for free pallets as they’re usually in high demand. 4. Construction Sites Construction sites frequently receive building materials on pallets, and workers might be willing to part with empty pallets they no longer need. If you’re like me, you can approach the site manager or workers with a sheepish smile and ask if you can take some pallets off their hands—you know, so they’re out of their way and they don’t have to deal with them. 5. Recycling Centers and Dumps Recycling centers and dumps often have designated areas for wooden pallets. Some centers allow people to take pallets for free. Check the rules and regs of your local recycling center to see if they offer this service. 6. Local Farms and Nurseries Farms and nurseries receive shipments on pallets. Approach local farmers or nursery owners and ask if they have any available. They might be more than happy to let you take them off their hands. 7. Distribution Centers Distribution centers for supermarkets and large retailers are another potential source for finding free pallets. Reach out to these centers and inquire about their pallet disposal policies. Sometimes, they have a surplus they’re willing to give away. Remember, when collecting pallets, it's important to give them a once over. Look for pallets that are clean, dry, and free from any visible damage. Try to avoid pallets that have stains, strong odors, or signs of chemical spills, as they might not be safe for use in your DIY projects. Reuse Pallets for Creative, Functional DIY Projects Now that you've mastered the art of pallet reclamation and how to take pallets apart, the possibilities are endless. From rustic photo frames to trendy garden furniture, these salvaged treasures can become anything your imagination desires. Plus, you're not just saving money; you're reducing waste, which is always a good thing. Check out these 50 creative and functional ideas for unleashing the potential of wooden pallets . Taking Pallets Apart FAQs 1. What tools do I need to take apart a wooden pallet? For taking apart a small number of pallets, you need a short pry bar, a hammer, and work gloves to prevent splinters. Eye protection is also a good idea. 2. How can I avoid splintering the wood when taking apart pallets? To avoid splintering, focus on the corners of each slat, use the claw end of a pry bar to gently lift the slats, and apply even pressure while pulling. Patience is key to preserving the wood intact. 3. What are the benefits of using a pallet puller for disassembling large quantities of pallets? A pallet puller makes disassembling large quantities of pallets easier and more efficient. It helps to quickly separate the slats from the frame without much manual effort, ideal for large projects like creating a pallet accent wall. 4. Where can I find free wooden pallets for my DIY projects? You can find free wooden pallets at local businesses, industrial areas, online marketplaces like Craigslist and Facebook Marketplace, construction sites, recycling centers, local farms and nurseries, and distribution centers for supermarkets and large retailers. 5. What should I do to prepare reclaimed pallet wood for reuse? After taking apart the pallets, remove any remaining nails or staples, and sand the rough edges. Use medium-grit sandpaper (60-80 grit) and work in the direction of the wood grain for the best results, whether you prefer a rustic or polished finish.

I've always procrastinated when it comes to thinning those precious sprouted carrot seeds in the garden and greenhouse. Not because I don't love working in the garden and greenhouse; I do! But I feel like I'm wasting those wee little plants that have honored me with their presence after weeks of watering—here at 36-Acre Wood, that's by hand with collected rainwater —and protecting them from things that want to prevent that growth by eating the seeds or seedlings (e.g., field mice and pack rats) or adverse conditions (like very late frosts, extreme early heat, and strong winds). So, I felt a little sad again this year while plucking those tiny carrots or snipping off the greens at soil level when they were just too close for comfort. That's when I decided I wouldn't just toss them in the compost bin as I usually do, which is all well and good. No, this time, I would use them in the kitchen. Here are some ways to use those edible carrot greens and teeny carrot roots from thinning. Ways To Use Carrot Greens in the Kitchen Carrot greens are often overlooked but can be quite versatile and useful in the kitchen. After thinning your carrot bed when those young but crowded plants are about two inches tall and washing to remove any soil or other goodies from the garden, here are some ideas for what you can do with them: Sauté or Stir-Fry This is my favorite way to use carrot greens from thinning: Cook them with garlic and olive oil as you would with spinach or kale for a simple side dish. I like it when they get a little crunchy. Make Pesto Blend carrot greens with garlic, nuts (like almonds or pine nuts), olive oil, Parmesan cheese (optional), and a squeeze of lemon juice for a bright and flavorful pesto. Use as a Garnish Finely chop the greens and use them to top soups, salads, or roasted vegetables for a fresh, herby kick. Add to Salads Treat them like other leafy greens. Mix carrot tops with other salad ingredients for a unique flavor. Carrot-Top Tea Steep the greens in hot water with a little honey for a mild, earthy tea. Add to Soups or Broth Toss the greens into a vegetable broth or soup for added depth and nutrients. Make Chimichurri Blend carrot greens with vinegar, olive oil, garlic, and herbs like parsley for a zesty sauce to drizzle over grilled meats or veggies. Using the Full Bounty of Your Carrot Harvest—Including Carrot Tops from Thinning Thinning carrots may seem like a tedious chore, but it doesn't have to be a wasteful one. By making use of both the tender young roots and their greens, you can add fresh flavors and nutrients to your meals while making the most of your harvest. Next time you thin your carrot bed, think twice before tossing those greens in the compost pile—they might become one of your new favorite ingredients. How do you like to use carrot greens from thinning in your kitchen? Carrot Thinning FAQs 1. Why is thinning carrots necessary? Thinning helps prevent overcrowding, allowing the remaining carrots to grow larger and healthier. Without thinning, carrots may become stunted or misshapen due to lack of space and nutrients. 2. Can you eat carrot greens? Yes! Carrot greens are completely edible and have a slightly earthy, parsley-like flavor. They can be used in pesto, salads, soups, and more. 3. Do carrot greens contain toxins? Carrot greens contain alkaloids, similar to other leafy greens like spinach or kale, but they are safe to eat in normal culinary amounts. Some people with sensitivities to alkaloids or allergies to plants in the carrot family should try a small amount first. 4. What do carrot greens taste like? They have a mildly bitter, herbaceous flavor, similar to parsley or celery leaves. Young carrot greens are more tender and milder in taste. 5. How do you store carrot greens? To keep carrot greens fresh, store them in a damp paper towel inside a plastic bag in the refrigerator. They should stay fresh for up to a week. 6. Can I use carrot greens in place of parsley or cilantro? Yes, carrot greens make a great substitute for parsley in recipes like tabbouleh and chimichurri or as a garnish. They can also be used in place of cilantro for a slightly different but still fresh flavor. 7. Are there any other ways to use carrot thinnings? Besides being used in cooking, carrot greens and young roots can be fed to livestock, used as compost, or even added to homemade natural dyes for fabric or paper. 8. When and how should I thin carrots? Carrots are best thinned when they reach about 2 inches tall. Gently pull out the smallest or most crowded seedlings, leaving about a thumb's width between the remaining plants. For larger carrot varieties, a second thinning may be needed a few weeks later to allow for more space of about 1–2 inches. To avoid disturbing nearby roots, you can also snip the unwanted seedlings at the soil level with scissors instead of pulling them.   Written by Deb Kingsbury Living on a 36-acre off-grid property in northern Arizona, Deb and her husband Jeremy embrace sustainable living through solar power, rainwater harvesting, and a passive solar home built with recycled polystyrene block. A freelance writer and editor, Deb grows food in raised beds and a greenhouse and is an avid hiker and backpacker. A long-time search & rescue volunteer, she has published two novels  and previously homesteaded on the East Coast.

Part of our potable rainwater harvesting system at 36-Acre Wood Disclaimer: I get a commission for purchases made through some of the links in this post. Written by Deb Kingsbury Living on a 36-acre off-grid property in northern Arizona, Deb and her husband Jeremy embrace sustainable living through solar power, rainwater harvesting, and a passive solar home built with recycled polystyrene block. They also cultivate food in raised beds and a greenhouse. Deb, who previously homesteaded on the East Coast, is an avid hiker and backpacker, a long-time search and rescue volunteer, and a freelance editor and writer with two published novels. Here in the high desert of northern Arizona, rain is not as frequent a visitor as it is in other parts of the country, making every drop a precious resource. At our off-grid home, we've set things up to collect the often sporadic rainfall to meet our home's daily and annual water needs. Join me as I walk you through building a potable rainwater harvesting system and how you can replicate and modify it for your own home. Speaking of raindrops and codes, our county has recognized the value and increasing popularity of rainwater harvesting by implementing a dedicated building code. What you'll see here complies with those guidelines, but you'll want to check with your own local building department to see if they have a rainwater harvesting code of their own, especially if you're integrating this type of system in new construction and as your primary (or only) water supply. Calculating Rainwater Collection Potential First things first, decide on how much storage capacity you need based on how much liquid gold you estimate you can collect from the sky where you live. The magic numbers come from the square footage (the area) of the roof serviced by your gutter system and the annual precipitation—rain and snow—that falls on that roof. To simplify this calculation, you can turn to various rainwater harvesting calculators available online, including this one courtesy of WaterCache . For our rainwater collection, we have two main roof areas, on the house and the workshop, with six-inch seamless gutters all around, totaling about 3,000 square feet. Inputting that figure into the rainwater harvesting calculator, it comes up with 1,869 gallons per inch of rain that our downspouts send into three interconnected potable water tanks. That said, we don't often get a full inch of rain from a single storm, so inputting the average annual rainfall for our area unveils the potential liquid bounty we could amass in a year. Where we live, between Williams, Arizona, and the Grand Canyon, the current annual average is 22 inches of rain. Add to that an average of 65 inches of snow, which is equivalent to approximately 6.5 inches of water (thank you, NASA, for the 10-to-1 snow-to-liquid ratio). At a grand total of 28.5 inches of precip per year, with our roof coverage, that's a whopping 52,332 gallons we might collect! However, given the nature of Mother Nature, tempering expectations is crucial. Averages are just that, and we've gotten less than that average—sometimes much less—for the past few years. Yet, armed with our own historical average water usage of 1,500 gallons per month, or 18,000 gallons annually, a figure we got from our less conservation-minded water bills of yesteryears, we know we could comfortably subsist on less than half of that 52,000-gallon figure. If you want to look up the figures for your own area, USClimateData  provides data on average annual rain and snowfall. And on the practical side, measuring rainfall need not be an elaborate affair. A simple, inexpensive rain gauge , like the one we use, is an easy way to compile your own numbers over time. Each time it rains (or snows), we see how much we get, put the number in the rainwater calculator, and record it in our dedicated notebook. A Note on Snow and Water Collection Potential Keep in mind that if the snow just gets blown off your roof, like it often does here, or it doesn't sit up there long enough to melt into your collection system, it basically won't count, right? We recommend putting snow breaks  on your roof, not only to protect your gutters from heavy snow and ice but also to help prevent the snow and ice from sliding off, to instead melt beneath or through the guards and into your collection system. There are different types of snow breaks. We used and installed these commercial snow guards  (pictured below) on our workshop, and our roofer put up breaks similar to this one  on our house. Deciding on Rainwater Storage Capacity How much rainwater tank capacity is too little, and how much is too much? That's tough to answer because, for one thing, you're continuously using the water you collect, drawing down your tank(s). But if you can't collect and store it all when it comes down, you'll obviously lose some of that potential. And, while you don't need enough storage capacity for an entire year's water consumption, neither do you want your tank(s) frequently overflowing—especially if most of the rain happens (or snow melts) during one season or within a few months of the year as it does here during the monsoon. While adding more storage capacity or switching to a larger cistern at a later date is an option, that would cost more and add logistical issues compared to installing all the storage you'll need at once. Based on our historical usage, our collection potential calculations, and some neighbors' experiences with rainwater harvesting, we decided on a system with three 5,000-gallon cisterns plus two 275-gallon cubes. We also added a series of 50-gallon overflow barrels, especially for outdoor use in the garden, cleaning, and more. Our seamless gutters collect rainwater and melting snow from almost every part of the roof, and the same goes for the workshop. Just before the 2022 monsoon season started, we had the gutters installed on our newly constructed house. It rained the next day for the first time in about two months. One month later, all three of our tanks, including the one by the workshop, the cubes, and the overflow barrels, were full. Needless to say, now we wish we had more storage! Equalizing a Multi-Tank Rainwater System When the architect drew up our building plans, including the rainwater harvesting system, he explained the need to equalize our tanks, meaning that once in place, the overflows should all be at the same elevation. So we did a little experiment in our kitchen to prove to ourselves that what he said was true. (Not that we doubted him—he has a similar system.) I don't have a picture of that experiment, but we took three plastic bottles (ours were the same size, but you can do this with different-sized bottles) and connected them near the bottom with snuggly fitted straws. This mimicked how our real tanks would be connected by PVC pipe between their outflows, located inches above the base. We then slowly poured water into one of the bottles and watched how it moved from that bottle, through the straw to the second and into the third, until the water level had equalized among the three. Next, we put a block under one bottle to raise it and repeated the process. The result: the elevated bottle ended up with less water than the other two once the three bottles had equalized. So, in real life, if your tanks are connected, but their overflows are at different elevations, one will overflow before the others fill completely. That's why it's important that the overflows are all at the same elevation if you have multiple tanks, whether they're the same size or dimensions or not. This means you may have to use a transit  or another tool or method to get the tanks as close to level, both on or in the ground and with each other, as possible. This is made all the more tricky if your tanks are spread out at different locations around your home, the ground is sloped (even a little), or both. If you're required by code, as we are, or by necessity to partially bury your tanks, you'll probably need to do so at different depths in order to make them all level at the overflow. Even if the area around your home appears flat, there's often at least some difference that can make a difference to your rainwater harvesting system. And, of course, the more the slope between tanks, the bigger the difference in how much digging you'll need to do. A Note on Burying Water Tanks If you want to completely bury a rainwater cistern, you'll need one specifically designed for that purpose. The polyethylene tanks we have are not designed to be buried. In fact, the manufacturers of these tanks suggest you don't bury them at all—but if you do, do not bury them more than halfway up the straight sides. There are reinforced tanks available that can be buried deeper, so be sure you're getting the right kind of cistern for your situation. Installing Underground Water Pipes Once our three cisterns were partially buried to a minimum depth of 31 inches per county code and equalized, it was time to find a backhoe operator to dig trenches—about 150 feet of them—for the PVC pipe that would connect the tanks and bring the water into the house. We also installed a shut-off valve on each tank's outflow below grade so we'd always be able to isolate any one of them for things like cleaning, repair, water management, and so forth. We placed a vertical access tube around each valve so that, once the tanks were backfilled, the shut-offs would still be... well, accessible to open or close it, just as you would use a water key to shut off a municipal water supply. The PVC pipes pictured here connect three polyethylene tanks, one of the workshop and two others on either end of the house, coming together to then enter the house below grade. We air-tested the system per county code before we backfilled the water pipe trenches. For a non-pressurized system like ours, we tested it to 30 psi, making sure it held the air for at least 15 minutes. It actually held at that level for days. Adding Screens and First Flush Diverters It's not only required by our county code in our case, but it's also a good idea to screen the rainwater as it makes its way from the roof to your tanks. A first flush, also called a roof washer, is a simple device that removes the initial flow of water in a potable rainwater collection system. The first pass of stormwater washes your roof of all the sediment and other "stuff" that's built up since the last time it rained or snowed so that cleaner water goes into your tanks and then into your house. With a first flush, the water heading from the gutter into the downspout first passes through a "leaf eater," which is a screen that catches the bigger things, like leaves or pine needles, bugs, a field mouse dropped by a passing bird (happened to us, anyway), or whatever else might end up on your roof. After passing through the screen, the water drops into the first flush downpipe . As the downpipe fills, a ball inside rises. Once it reaches the top of the vertical pipe, the water then goes into the pipe that continues to your tank. A drip valve at the bottom of the first flush downpipe slowly releases the diverted water (which you can collect for other uses, too). While now required by code in our county and others, not everyone agrees that first flush rainwater diverters are such a good idea, and we know some folks end up removing them down the line. Here's a good article about the pros and cons of first flush systems: To First Flush or Not to First Flush . A Note on Optional Gutter Guards In addition to the leaf eaters, we added these simple gutter guards at the top of our downspouts. Why? Well, for one, we once found that dead mouse I mentioned above in one of our gutters, and we really don't want a mouse carcass going any further into our system. We know the leaf eater would have stopped that mouse, but we decided this inexpensive extra protection wouldn't hurt. It goes without saying, though, if you do have gutter guards or any other screen in your system, it's a good idea to get up there and check them periodically to clean out whatever may have been stopped by the screen so it doesn't dam things up. Filtering and Purifying Rainwater in a Potable System Is it really necessary to filter and purify rainwater, especially if it's already been through a first flush or roof washer system? According to the county where we live, it is, and we agree. After all, we do get bird poop on the roof, and other goodies float around in the air and get mixed up in rain and snow, so may as well not drink it. So, we purchased a 10-gallon-per-minute (GPM) Pulsar Quantum Disinfection System , which requires no electricity, and a BBF Series 2 Whole House Filtration System with a 5-micron pleated filter and carbon block filter from US Water Systems (shown below). When the water enters the house, it's drawn through the pump, located in a sump," a recessed part of the floor below the level of the foundation. We use a Grundfos Scala2 pump . Then, the water goes through the filter and disinfection unit before moving on to an on-demand water heater and the rest of the house. The two-stage water filter is on the left and the Pulsar disinfection on the right. The white paddles are used to remove the filters when the cartridges need replacing. In the photo above, you can see we have (red) shut-off valves before and after the (blue) filter and (black) disinfection units. These shut-offs are required by code and are also necessary to turn the water off when we need to change the cartridges in either unit, which for us is every one or two years. Testing Your Potable Rainwater Supply Whether it's required where you live or not, we think it's a good idea to have your water tested. Our county building code does require a water quality test, so we had one done through a local laboratory to present to the inspector once the whole system was in place. While the code doesn't specify what exactly should be tested for, we requested a bacteria test and another for zinc. Zinc is present in metal roofs, particularly in galvanized metal, which ours is not, but we wanted to show that to the inspector. The water test cost us $25. We passed with an "A" on all counts. Adding and Raising Overflows Once our system was completed and inspected and the tanks started filling, we directed any overflow into a series of smaller barrels and cubes for use in our raised beds, for watering some fruit and nut trees, sharing with the birds and other local wildlife, and so forth. And we've had plenty of overflow water since we added those barrels and cubes. As you can see in the photo below, a pipe from the bulkhead sends any overflow away from the tank (rather than letting the water shoot out or run down the side) and into a 50-gallon rainwater barrel, which itself has an overflow with a pipe to another tank. There's a spigot near the bottom of each barrel, so we can easily use that bonus water from there. The overflow pipe from the cistern is raised a little to allow the tank to fill to the actual 5,000-gallon line and beyond. A Satisfying Part of Sustainable Living: Using a Potable Rainwater Harvesting System In an area where the word "drought" is often part of the local lexicon. it feels good to get the water we need for our home and garden directly from the sky, even during extended dry stretches. It's a fact that the upfront cost of installing a potable rainwater collection system can be significant—with our three large polyethylene cisterns, seamless gutters and first flush diverters, 150+ feet of underground pipe, filtration and disinfection system, and overflows, ours cost about $18,000 in 2021/22—but it's nice to no longer pay for municipal water, which isn't available where we now live, or for hauling or delivery, not to mention eliminate the fuel involved in the latter. And living a more self-sufficient, sustainable lifestyle simply feels good, too. Do you plan to install a potable rainwater harvesting system or already have one? Do you have any questions about rainwater collection? Let us know in the comments below.

Overflows on one of our water tanks Disclosure :  Some of the links on this page are affiliate links, and I may earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase. Collecting rainwater is a great way to reduce water bills and live more sustainably. But, as your rainwater tank fills, excess water has to go somewhere—and that's where a well-designed overflow system can make a big difference. With a DIY water tank overflow setup, you can redirect overflow water to other uses, like watering your garden, preventing erosion, or even filling another storage tank (or two or three, etc.). This guide will walk you through various types of water tank overflow setups, the materials you'll need, and how to make each type work efficiently as part of your rainwater harvesting system. Why Set Up a Water Tank Overflow? Having an overflow system isn't just about preventing excess water from spilling onto the ground; it's also about creating a backup solution that makes every drop count. Here’s what a water tank overflow can do: Maximize Water Usage : Redirecting overflow lets you use excess water rather than waste it. Prevent Erosion : Runoff can damage the surrounding area, causing soil erosion and pooling. Support Garden Irrigation : Overflow water can be directed to your garden, supporting plants without extra hose water. Types of DIY Water Tank Overflow Setups Depending on your needs and space, you can create several types of overflow systems. Each type uses different materials, and some work best for gardens, while others are ideal for additional storage. 1. Basic Spillover Overflow The simplest option, a spillover overflow, uses a pipe installed near the top of the water tank. When the tank fills, the water flows through the pipe, which directs it away from the tank base. This design works well for those who want minimal maintenance and a straightforward installation. Materials Needed : PVC pipe (diameter depends on tank size, but we usually use 1-1/2") Rubber gaskets (to ensure a tight seal) PVC elbows and couplings as needed Hacksaw PVC glue (optional) * Silicone sealant (optional) *Most of our overflows are not glued together but have tight fittings instead. We prefer this in case we want to adjust or redirect them in the future. We'd rather risk a small leak (so far, no drips) in our overflow than have to cut the PVC. Setup Instructions : Install the Pipe : Measure and cut a PVC pipe to fit the tank's overflow port. Secure it with rubber gaskets to prevent leaks. Direct the Pipe : Angle the pipe slightly downward and away from the tank base to guide water away from the area. Seal the Connection (Optional) : Use PVC glue and silicone sealant around the gasket to ensure a waterproof bond. It's a good idea to place a large bowl (for the pups, perhaps) beneath the overflow pipe so the water doesn't create a hole in the ground. Secondary storage tank for overflow 2. Secondary Rainwater Storage Overflow For those who want to capture even more rainwater, a secondary storage overflow system allows excess water to fill another tank. This setup requires more space but provides additional water storage for dry spells. Materials Needed : PVC pipe and fittings Second water tank Hose connectors Waterproof sealant Hacksaw Setup Instructions : Install Overflow Pipe on Primary Tank : Connect a PVC pipe from the overflow outlet of your main tank to the inlet of a second tank. This ensures that when the first tank is full, water will automatically flow into the second. Connect the Tanks : Use hose connectors to link both tanks securely. Seal All Connections (Optional) : Apply waterproof sealant to all connectors to ensure no leaks occur between the tanks. 3. Garden Irrigation Overflow With a garden irrigation overflow system, you can set up a natural irrigation solution. This overflow directs water from your tank to garden beds or plants, making it perfect for anyone creating a self-sustaining watering system. Materials Needed : Garden hose or soaker hose Drip irrigation connectors Hose adapter for PVC pipe PVC fittings Stakes for hose support Setup Instructions : Attach Garden Hose to Overflow Pipe : Connect a garden or soaker hose to the overflow port using an adapter. Direct the Hose : Place the hose in your garden, using stakes to secure it near plants or garden beds. Install Drip Connectors : If using a drip irrigation line, install connectors at regular intervals to distribute water evenly. This setup allows overflow water to trickle directly into the soil, providing gentle and consistent watering whenever your tank overflows. 4. French Drain Rainwater Collection Overflow For larger systems or those with significant overflow volumes, a French drain setup is ideal. This system disperses overflow into the ground, preventing pooling and soil erosion. Materials Needed : Perforated PVC or corrugated drain pipe Gravel Landscaping fabric Shovel Drainage rocks Setup Instructions : Dig a Trench : Dig a trench starting from the base of the tank and extending away, about 12 inches deep. Lay Down Landscaping Fabric : This prevents soil from clogging the perforated pipe. Install Perforated Pipe : Place the pipe in the trench, connecting it to the overflow outlet on the tank. Fill with Gravel and Drainage Rocks : Fill the trench around the pipe with gravel, then cover with rocks for additional filtration and support. The water will disperse safely underground, which is great for large yards or areas with substantial rainfall. Rainwater barrels in-line for water overflow collection Tips for Optimizing Your Overflow Setup Once you've chosen the right overflow type for your needs, here are a few tips to make sure it works as smoothly and efficiently as possible. Check for Clogs : Periodically inspect pipes and hoses to ensure no debris is blocking water flow. Angle Pipes Downward : A slight downward angle helps water flow away without backlogging. Test Before Heavy Rainfall : Run water through the overflow system to confirm it’s working properly. Add Mesh Covers : Place a mesh cover over the overflow outlet to prevent leaves and other debris or even small critters and bugs from entering the pipes. Other Recommended Products To make setting up your DIY water tank overflow easier, here are a few recommended products: RainHarvesting Tank Overflow Kit : Flanged elbow with rubber gasket, screen and adapter Gutter Diverter for Rain Barrel : Suitable for connecting two water tanks or barrels Rainbarrel Hose Connector Kit : Another option to connect two tanks or barrels Rain Barrel Bulkhead Fitting Kit with Plugs and Hole Saw Tool : Universal for most rain barrels and water tanks Practical Uses for Overflow Water Having an overflow system lets you make the most of excess water, and there are many ways you can put it to use beyond storage: Garden Irrigation : The most common use, especially with a soaker or drip hose setup. Fill Ponds or Water Features : Overflow water can go to ornamental ponds or fountains, keeping them full. Provide Water for Pets or Wildlife : Overflow water can provide a water source for birds, bees, and other critters or pets. Reduce Foundation Stress : By guiding water away from your home, you reduce the risk of water pooling around foundations. Rainwater Collection & Water Tank Overflow: Final Thoughts Setting up a DIY overflow for your rainwater tank is a pretty straightforward project. Whether adding a spillover pipe or connecting a secondary tank, each approach helps maximize your harvested water while protecting your property from excess water damage. By using the overflow water for productive purposes, you can make your rainwater harvesting system even more eco-friendly and efficient. With these materials, setups, and tips, you'll be ready to create an overflow solution that not only makes the most of your rainwater but also aligns with sustainable living practices. FAQs: DIY Water Tank Overflow Systems 1. What is a water tank overflow, and why do I need one? A water tank overflow prevents excess water from spilling and causing erosion by redirecting it. It’s essential for maximizing water use and protecting your property. 2. Can I use overflow water for garden irrigation? Yes, overflow water can be directed to garden beds using a soaker or drip hose, providing a natural irrigation system for your plants. 3. What materials do I need to create a basic overflow setup? Common materials include PVC pipes, rubber gaskets, sealant, and possibly hoses for garden overflow. Check my materials list for more details. 4. Is it possible to add a second tank for overflow storage? Absolutely! You can link a second (and third, etc.) tank or barrel to your primary tank’s overflow, giving you extra storage capacity during rainy periods. 5. How do I prevent clogs in my overflow system? Install a mesh screen or filter over the overflow outlet to keep leaves and debris from entering the pipes, and inspect periodically for blockages. 6. What type of overflow system is best for garden irrigation? A garden irrigation overflow setup with a soaker hose or drip line is ideal, providing gentle, controlled water release directly into your garden beds. 7. Can I install a water tank overflow myself? Yes, with basic tools and materials, most overflow systems are DIY-friendly. Just follow the setup instructions, and you’ll be good to go!

Pros, Cons, and New Technology Our solar power battery bank Written by Deb Kingsbury Living on a 36-acre off-grid property in northern Arizona, Deb and her husband Jeremy embrace sustainable living through solar power, rainwater harvesting, and a passive solar home built with recycled polystyrene block. A freelance writer and editor, Deb grows food in raised beds and a greenhouse and is an avid hiker and backpacker. A long-time search & rescue volunteer, she has published two novels and previously homesteaded on the East Coast. If you’re considering setting up an off-grid solar power system, the battery bank is one of the most important components. Batteries allow you to store excess energy generated during sunny periods and use it when the sun isn’t shining. But choosing the right type of battery for your system can be confusing. There are several different kinds of batteries available, each with its advantages and disadvantages, maintenance requirements, and depth of discharge (how low you can take the charge without damaging the battery). In addition to currently available options, new battery technologies are being developed to improve the performance and affordability of off-grid solar power. Let’s look at the most common types of batteries used for off-grid solar power, the pros and cons of each, and some cutting-edge technologies that might change the game in the near future. 1. Lead-Acid Batteries This is what we're currently using at 36-Acre Wood. Lead-acid batteries have been around for over a century and are the most commonly used type of battery in off-grid solar power systems, particularly deep-cycle batteries designed for renewable energy applications. There are two main types: flooded lead-acid (FLA) and sealed lead-acid (SLA) batteries, including absorbent glass mat (AGM) and gel types. However, while maintenance-free and resistant to spillage, gel batteries are not ideal for solar power use due to their sensitivity to temperature fluctuations and slower charging rates, which can affect performance and longevity in varying climates. When comparing FLA and SLA batteries for solar applications, FLA batteries typically come at a lower upfront cost and have a longer lifespan if properly maintained, but they require regular maintenance and ventilation. SLA batteries, on the other hand, are more maintenance-free, less prone to spillage, and easier to install, making them a convenient choice for many users, though generally at a higher cost and slightly shorter lifespan. Pros Cost-effective : Lead-acid batteries are among the cheapest options available, making them an attractive choice for budget-conscious solar users. Proven reliability : With decades of use in various industries, they're well-understood and reliable. Readily available : Widely accessible and easy to source for solar applications. Cons Weight and size : Lead-acid batteries are heavy and bulky, which can be a downside for smaller or mobile systems. Limited depth of discharge (DoD) : These batteries should generally only be discharged to about 50% to maintain their lifespan, meaning you need a larger battery bank to cover your energy needs. Maintenance : Flooded lead-acid batteries require regular maintenance, including adding distilled water to the cells, while sealed versions are maintenance-free. Shorter lifespan : Lead-acid batteries have a shorter lifespan than newer technologies, typically lasting around 5-7 years with proper care. (Note: Over time, lead-acid batteries lose capacity and efficiency, often dropping to about 50-80% of their original capacity after the initial lifespan. Proper maintenance, such as regular equalization charges and keeping them at an optimal temperature, can help extend their useful life.) Maintenance Flooded lead-acid batteries require regular watering and periodic equalization (we do this monthly) to prevent sulfation. Sealed batteries, like AGM and Gel, are maintenance-free. Best For Cost-conscious off-grid users who don’t mind routine maintenance and can accommodate larger battery banks. 2. Lithium-Ion Batteries Lithium-ion (Li-ion) batteries have gained popularity, especially for off-grid solar applications. They offer better performance and longer life than lead-acid batteries but come at a higher upfront cost. Pros High depth of discharge (DoD) : Lithium-ion batteries can typically be discharged to around 80-90% without significantly reducing their lifespan, so you need fewer batteries to store the same amount of energy. Long lifespan : These batteries last much longer, often up to 15 years, making them more cost-effective in the long run. Low maintenance : Unlike lead-acid batteries, lithium-ion batteries require no ongoing maintenance. Lightweight and compact : These batteries are lighter and more compact than lead-acid options, making them ideal for homes with limited space. Cons High upfront cost : Lithium-ion batteries are more expensive to purchase initially, though this cost is offset over time due to their longer lifespan. Temperature sensitivity : They can be sensitive to extreme temperatures, requiring careful placement or additional temperature control for optimal performance. Safety concerns : Though rare, lithium-ion batteries can catch fire if damaged or improperly charged, though modern systems include safety mechanisms to prevent this. Maintenance Virtually maintenance-free, but they may require monitoring to ensure they are operating within safe temperature ranges. Best For Users with higher energy demands who want a long-lasting, maintenance-free system and can afford the higher upfront costs. 3. Nickel-Iron (NiFe) Batteries Nickel-iron batteries, or Edison batteries, are highly durable and known for their long lifespan. While not as commonly used in off-grid solar systems, they are becoming a more attractive option due to their ability to withstand harsh conditions. Pros Extremely long lifespan : NiFe batteries can last over 20 years with proper maintenance, making them one of the most durable battery types available. High tolerance for abuse : These batteries can handle overcharging, deep discharges, and extreme temperatures much better than other batteries. Environmentally friendly : Nickel-iron batteries are made from more sustainable and less toxic materials than lead-acid and lithium-ion batteries. Cons Lower efficiency : Nickel-iron batteries have lower energy efficiency, meaning they waste more energy during charging and discharging. High maintenance : These batteries require regular maintenance, including adding distilled water and occasionally balancing the electrolyte levels. High initial cost : While they have a long lifespan, the initial cost is high, which might deter some users. Maintenance Routine watering and electrolyte balancing are necessary for the long-term health of nickel-iron batteries. Best For Off-grid users in remote or harsh environments who value durability and longevity over efficiency. 4. Saltwater Batteries Saltwater batteries are one of the newest options for off-grid solar systems. Unlike traditional batteries, which use toxic materials like lead or lithium, saltwater batteries rely on non-toxic saline solutions, making them more environmentally friendly. Pros Non-toxic and environmentally friendly : Since they use salt water as the electrolyte, these batteries are fully recyclable and have a minimal environmental impact. Low maintenance : These batteries require little to no maintenance over their lifetime. Good depth of discharge (DoD) : Saltwater batteries can be discharged to around 80% without significant degradation. Cons Lower energy density : Saltwater batteries have lower energy storage capacity, meaning you’ll need a larger battery bank to store the same amount of energy as a lithium-ion or lead-acid system. Not widely available : As they are still a relatively new technology, saltwater batteries can be harder to find and may be more expensive than traditional options. Maintenance Minimal maintenance is required, making them a low-hassle option for solar users. Best For Eco-conscious users looking for a sustainable and low-maintenance solution with space for larger battery banks. Batteries in Development for Off-Grid Solar Power As the renewable energy sector grows, so does research into better battery technologies for off-grid solar power. Here are a few promising battery types currently being researched: 1. Solid-State Batteries Solid-state batteries are similar to lithium-ion but use a solid electrolyte instead of a liquid one. This could result in safer, longer-lasting batteries with higher energy density. Pros : Higher energy density means more energy storage in a smaller size. Improved safety due to the elimination of flammable liquid electrolytes. Longer lifespan than traditional lithium-ion batteries. Cons : Currently, it's very expensive to produce. Still in the research and development phase for home solar use. 2. Sodium-Ion Batteries Sodium-ion batteries use sodium instead of lithium, making them a more abundant and potentially cheaper alternative. Pros : Sodium is much more abundant than lithium, potentially lowering costs. Less harmful to the environment compared to lithium extraction. Cons : Lower energy density compared to lithium-ion, meaning larger batteries will be needed. Still in development for widespread commercial use in off-grid solar systems. 3. Flow Batteries Flow batteries store energy in external tanks, allowing for greater scalability. Pros : Can scale easily by increasing the size of the electrolyte tanks. Long lifespan and less degradation over time compared to traditional batteries. Cons : Bulky, making them less suitable for homes with limited space. Expensive and primarily used in large-scale commercial applications at this stage. Choosing the Best Battery for Your Off-Grid Solar Power System When it comes to choosing the right battery for your off-grid solar power system, each option comes with its own unique set of advantages and drawbacks. Lead-acid batteries are a cost-effective, time-tested choice, but they require regular maintenance and have a shorter lifespan. Lithium-ion batteries offer a longer lifespan and better performance but come with a higher price tag. Meanwhile, emerging technologies like saltwater, solid-state, and sodium-ion batteries promise to improve efficiency, reduce environmental impact, and lower costs in the future. Whichever battery you choose, it’s crucial to consider factors like depth of discharge, lifespan, maintenance requirements, and cost when planning your off-grid solar system. As battery technology evolves, off-grid living will only become more accessible and sustainable. Off-Grid Solar Battery FAQs 1. What are the best batteries for off-grid solar power? The best batteries for off-grid solar power depend on your specific needs. Lithium-ion batteries are popular for their long lifespan and efficiency, while lead-acid batteries are more affordable but require more maintenance. Nickel-iron batteries offer extreme durability, and emerging options like saltwater batteries are eco-friendly alternatives. Consider factors like cost, maintenance, and depth of discharge when selecting the best battery for your system. 2. What’s the difference between lithium-ion and lead-acid batteries for solar power? Lithium-ion batteries are more efficient, have a higher depth of discharge (80-90%), and last longer (10-15 years) than lead-acid batteries, which typically have a depth of discharge of 50% and a shorter lifespan of 3-5 years. Lead-acid batteries, however, are more affordable upfront, making them a cost-effective option for those on a budget but with more space and maintenance capacity. 3. How do I compare different batteries for off-grid solar systems? When comparing batteries for off-grid solar systems, consider factors like lifespan, depth of discharge (DoD), maintenance requirements, cost, and energy efficiency. Lead-acid batteries are cheaper but require more maintenance and have lower DoD. Lithium-ion batteries are efficient and require no maintenance but are more expensive upfront. Nickel-iron batteries last longer but are less energy-efficient. Think about your energy usage and maintenance preferences when making your decision. 4. Is there any new battery technology for off-grid solar power? Yes, new battery technologies like solid-state, sodium-ion, and flow batteries are being developed for off-grid solar power. Solid-state batteries promise greater energy density and safety, while sodium-ion batteries offer a cost-effective alternative to lithium-ion. Flow batteries provide scalability for larger systems, though they are not yet widely available for residential use. These technologies are still in development but may offer improved performance in the future. 5. Which off-grid solar battery needs the least maintenance? Lithium-ion batteries and saltwater batteries require the least maintenance compared to lead-acid and nickel-iron batteries. Lithium-ion batteries are virtually maintenance-free, while saltwater batteries, although a newer technology, are also low-maintenance. Lead-acid batteries, particularly flooded ones, require regular watering and equalization, making them higher maintenance. 6. How do battery depth of discharge (DoD) levels affect off-grid solar power systems? Depth of discharge (DoD) refers to how much of the battery’s capacity can be used before it needs to be recharged. Batteries with a higher DoD, like lithium-ion (80-90%), allow you to use more of their capacity before recharging. Lead-acid batteries generally have a lower DoD of around 50%, meaning you’ll need a larger battery bank to meet the same energy needs. Choosing a battery with a higher DoD can reduce the overall size of the battery bank required for your off-grid system. Learn More About Off-Grid Batteries for Solar Power Plants To dive deeper into the different types of batteries for off-grid solar power, you can explore a few reputable sources. These sources can give you a more comprehensive understanding of both the current state of off-grid solar battery technology and emerging developments.: 1. Clean Energy Reviews Website : Clean Energy Reviews Description : This site reviews solar and battery technologies, including comparisons of different battery types, performance metrics, and advice for off-grid users. 2. EnergySage Website : EnergySage Description : A marketplace for solar energy solutions, EnergySage also features an extensive library of resources and guides on batteries for solar power, including comparisons of lithium-ion, lead-acid, and other battery technologies. 3. Battery University Website : Battery University Description : An educational website offering in-depth tutorials and articles on battery technologies. This site is great for understanding the science behind batteries and comparing different types based on performance, lifecycle, and maintenance. 4. Solar Power World Website : Solar Power World Description : This publication focuses on the solar industry, offering technical articles, updates on new battery technologies, and case studies on solar installations for off-grid and grid-tied systems. 5. National Renewable Energy Laboratory (NREL) Website : NREL Description : NREL is a government-backed organization that conducts research in renewable energy, including batteries for solar power storage. It’s a valuable resource for detailed studies and innovations in solar energy and battery technology. 6. GreenTech Media (GTM) Website : GreenTech Media Description : GTM focuses on renewable energy innovations, including the latest in battery storage technologies. They provide news, analysis, and in-depth reports on trends in solar and battery systems. 7. PV Magazine Website : PV Magazine Description : PV Magazine covers news and developments in the solar power industry. It includes detailed articles on the latest battery technologies and their applications in off-grid solar systems. 8. IEEE Xplore Digital Library Website : IEEE Xplore Description : For more academic and technical papers on battery research, the IEEE Xplore Digital Library is a vast resource. It covers the latest advancements in battery technologies, including solid-state and flow batteries.