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Disclosure :  Some of the links on this page are affiliate links, and I may earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase. We’ve been living full-time on rainwater, thanks to our whole-house rainwater filtration system  that delivers clean, potable water for drinking, cooking, bathing, and laundry. It’s one of the most frequently asked questions we get—what exactly do we use to filter and disinfect? In this post, I’ll walk you through our setup, performance over the past three years, and the replacement filters we recommend. I’ve also included links so you can replicate our system if you want to. Our Rainwater Setup (A Quick Overview) We collect rainwater from the metal roofs on our home and garage/workshop into three 5,000-gallon tanks, with one at each end of the house and a third located on the shop. The tanks are connected below-grade, each with a shut-off valve, and the rainwater enters the house through a single pipe. (You can get more details about building a potable rainwater harvesting system like ours here .) Before entering the storage tanks, the water passes through pre-filters, including leaf filters and first-flush diverters (also known as roof washers), which you can see in the photo below. It then enters the house using a Grundfos Scala pump located in our utility room's sump and flows through our whole-house rainwater filtration system  for final purification and disinfection. The Filtration & Disinfection Units We Use We rely on US Water Systems'  Big Blue 4.5 x 20 Dual Filtration and Pulsar Quantum Disinfection for our rainwater collection. The system includes: Stage 1:  Sediment filter Stage 2:  Carbon block filter Stage 3:  Quantum disinfection unit This setup ensures our water is free of particulates, chemicals, and pathogens—ideal for off-grid or rural homes. It’s all plumbed after the pump and before the house’s main lines, as well as the on-demand water heater. Three Years of Performance While US Water System recommends changing out the filters every two years, our whole-house rainwater filtration system  ran on the same filters for a full three years—and based on water test results, could have gone for longer. We did annual tests ( [Brand/method] ), and each time, the water passed with flying colors (which, in the case of this type of test, was deep purple). We only replaced the filters—not the housings—when the three-year mark hit, purely as a precaution. 🧪 Pro tip: Pair your system with yearly water testing to stay safe and maximize the longevity of your filters. Replacement Filters When the time came, we changed out: Sediment filter:   US Water 4.5" x 20" Pleated Filter Cartridge 5 Micron Carbon filter:   US Water 4.5 x 20 Carbon Block Filter | USWCB-4520-10 Quantum disinfection filter:   IQ 1.0 Pulsar replacement filter cartridge US Water Systems carries a wide variety of other replacement filters . 💡 Set reminders for testing and replacements—you’ll maximize value and safety. What Makes This System Work for Us ✅ Low maintenance ✅ Clean, fresh-tasting water ✅ Easy-to-find replacement filters ✅ Perfect for sustainable, off-grid living with no power required ✅ Excellent customer service from US Water Systems in case of questions or problems Installing Your Own Whole-House Rainwater Filtration System? If you're harvesting rainwater and want clean, potable results throughout your home, a whole-house rainwater filtration system  is a smart, long-term investment. Here are the parts we recommend: US Water Big Blue 4.5 X 20 Dual Filtration System This 2-stage filtration system is designed to filter the water supply for a whole house. Pulsar Quantum Disinfection System - 10 GPM With just a 10-inch filter housing, you can get bacteria-free, safe, disinfected water, requiring no electricity, no chemicals, no UV bulbs that need to be disposed of properly due to their mercury content, no ballast to replace, and no carbon footprint. Rainwater Filtration FAQ These are some of the other common questions we get about our potable rainwater harvesting system: 1. Why is it necessary to filter and disinfect rainwater? Even though rainwater is naturally soft and free of many chemicals, it can pick up contaminants from your roof, gutters, and storage system—including dirt, bird droppings, pollen, and bacteria. Filtration and disinfection ensure your water is safe for drinking and everyday use. 2. Can I drink rainwater without a filtration system? We don’t recommend it. Although untreated rainwater may appear clean, it can actually contain harmful microorganisms or debris, such as bird droppings, dust and dirt from the roof, and more. A properly installed whole-house rainwater filtration system ensures the water is reliably safe for consumption. 3. How often should I replace the filters in a rainwater filtration system? Filter replacement depends on your water usage and quality; however, a general rule of thumb is to replace filters every couple of years. We used ours for three years with great test results before replacing them. (Note that some types of filters are washable, so you can temporarily remove and clean them to extend their lifespan.) 4. Do I need electricity for a quantum disinfection system? Nope! That’s one of the reasons we chose it. The Pulsar Quantum Disinfection unit from US Water Systems requires no electricity, no chemicals, and no UV bulbs—making it perfect for off-grid or low-energy homes like ours. 5. What kind of roof is best for potable rainwater harvesting? Metal roofing is ideal for collecting rainwater for potable use. It's smooth, easy to clean, and less likely to leach contaminants compared to asphalt shingles or wood shake. However, other roof types can be used for a potable rainwater harvesting system as long as you have proper filtration and disinfection. 6. Can this system work in freezing climates? Yes—with proper tank insulation and freeze-proof plumbing strategies, a whole-house rainwater filtration system can be utilized in cold climates, which we have here in Northern Arizona. We recommend burying pipes below frost depth and using insulated components where needed.

Disclosure :  Some of the links on this page are affiliate links, and I may earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase. A steel building is a big investment of both money and, if you've decided to build it yourself, time and labor. So, take care in deciding on a design and consider these tips, based on our own experience with a (supposedly) do-it-yourself steel building, even before you start shopping around. Choosing Your Building: Styles, Designs, and Quotes Before settling on a DIY steel building, ask yourself some questions: What are your needs and intended uses? How much room will you need for tools, equipment, vehicles, and open space to move around and work? Do you want to be able to pull through (have a garage door at either end)? Do you want one or more pedestrian doors and windows? Do you need a concrete slab (this may be required by your local building department) or a stem wall with a gravel or dirt floor? Also, consider your building site, including slope and drainage. Read reviews for various steel building companies. Some provide better support during the building process than others. On our off-grid property, we planned to have a solar panel array along the south side of our building and house the battery bank inside, so this affected both the design and orientation of the steel building we chose. Talk to multiple suppliers, even if they're out of state, and get several quotes. Especially if you'll be building it yourself, you'll want to have great customer service, so it's not just about making the sale. This is a photo we found when we were looking at steel buildings online. We based our design on this one, although ours would have an overhang only on one side. One thing we learned the hard way, though, was that snow load requirements in our area meant that our overhang, unlike the one in the picture, would end up with trusses. Those trusses made the building process much more complicated, including putting up the steel siding on that side of the building. You'll see later on.... Is it Really a DIY Project for You? When my husband and I were in the process of selecting a building and deciding which company to purchase from—and even early on, after we'd purchased the customized kit—we were confident we could do this on our own. We watched a number of YouTube videos (don't you just love YouTube for learning how to do just about anything?) and videos made by the manufacturer, and we really thought we had it handled. I mean, the two young girls in that one company video built theirs no problem! So we were golden. Not so fast. With a roof peak height of 14.5 feet and eave height of 11 ft., plus the weight and unwieldiness of some of the parts and pieces, the rafters and roofing, not to mention our lack of experience, we soon realized we were in over our heads. For example, the uprights, rafters, and roof trusses had to be assembled on the ground and each section raised into place and lifted to fit down onto the base rail (if that makes sense). Two people on their own can't raise, move, and lift one of those. We definitely needed help. Luckily, some neighbors came to our rescue, one of whom brought a large bucket loader, which we used to lift and raise each assembled piece, while a person on either "leg" guided it into place. Here's a photo of the end result, once all uprights were raised... When thinking seriously about whether you can build your steel building yourself, or with whatever crew of family or friends you have, consider: Size and height of the building Complexity (i.e., trusses, overhangs, etc.) Previous building experience (of any kind) Time (yours that is) Tools and equipment (What do you have on hand, and what will you need?) Local Building Codes and Permits Before you buy and build anything, check into local building codes and find out whether the size and type of structure you plan to build will require a permit and, therefore, an inspection. If you live within an HOA or POA, you'll want to check on CC&Rs that might apply. Things that affect your project and whether you'll need a building permit include: Location: Are you within town or city limits? On a rural property? What's the zoning? Size: Buildings under a certain square footage may not require a permit. Foundation: Does building code require that the size and type of building you want be on a foundation, and if so, what type? A footer? Stem wall? Slab? Other? Snow load: Requirements in your area can make a difference in the type of framing (rafters, trusses) and roofing you'll need. Delivery or Pickup? Consider whether you'll have your steel building kit delivered to your building site or pick it up. Delivery can add quite a bit to the cost, but pickup won't always be an option. In our case, we decided to use our 20-foot trailer to pick up the building parts, making sure beforehand that the longest pieces would fit on the trailer without excessive overhang. Rather than pay what would have been a $500 delivery charge, we drove 2.5 hours (each way) to Phoenix to pick up the kit and roll-up garage doors, which the company loaded onto the trailer for us. While we were able to offload the building parts by hand, be sure to have equipment (i.e., a forklift) on hand if you'll need it to offload the kit at the building site. This applies whether you'll have your building kit delivered or will pick it up yourself. Tools and Equipment For our building—and others from the company that sold it to us—these are the tools and equipment we needed: Hand tools Impact drivers (drills) with extra batteries if cordless bits (our tens of thousands of tek screws were 5/16ths) Hammer drill, if you're drilling into concrete Wrench We mostly used this for tightening bolts and also for bending out the pinched ends of cut pieces of metal framing. Angle grinder Tin snips like this  (We got a set of three with left, right, and straight snips, and used them all for the building.) String/plumb line Two-food level T-square Tape measure Speed square, like this one  (I recommend a metal one, not plastic.) Clamps We needed a LOT of clamps of various sizes and types, in part for holding siding and metal roofing sheets in place, among other uses. At one point, we had about a dozen clamps on the building. Ladders, Scaffolding, and Lifts Eight- and 12-foot step ladders Stackable 6-foot scaffolds (We needed four to be able to create two sets of 12-foot scaffolds at a time.) Man-lift (We rented one for doing the roof, but it was awkward to use and ultimately not worth the money.) A scissor lift would have been better, but we couldn't get one for outdoor use in our area at the time.) Miscellaneous Tool belt Work gloves Safety glasses Magnets like this  (strong ones for holding the string for our straight lines, even better with eye bolts) Permanent marker, pencil Getting Started Often, even when doing it yourself, you'll need a subcontractor to do the foundation work. In our case, given the rural location, we had to contact numerous companies, big and small, and ask other local landowners for recommendations before we found a subcontractor willing and able to do our foundation. He and his crew did a great job, but we did have to be patient and wait a few months for them to get to our project. In the photo below, you'll see our perfectly level stem wall — so we had a great base to start with — the four caissons for the overhang pillars and the packed gravel floor. Before You Start Building Take your time. Don't rush into the building process before you make sure you have everything and do some quality control. I speak from experience here ... and learned this the hard way when we were well into putting up the building. So don't do what we did. Instead... Lay out parts and pieces.  Using the parts and packing list you should get from the manufacturer, ensure you have everything, right down to the smallest hardware. (We ended up having to call the company and have them ship and sometimes overnight multiple missing items, multiple times, as we discovered what we DIDN'T have ... right when we needed it.) Count and measure.  For all batches of the same parts, count and count again. Are they all there? And are they all the exact same size? Even a quarter inch--definitely a half-inch--can make a noticeable difference if a rafter isn't the same length as the rest. If it's too long, at least you can trim it to size. Too short ... well, that's a bigger problem. Measure again.  If you look closely (or even not-so-closely) at our roof, especially when the sheeting is in place, you'll understand why I say to measure again. Duplicate.  Here I'm referring to something like assembling trusses on the ground. Do it the same way each time. Stack them on top of each other. Are they exactly the same? Level.  Pretty self-explanatory, but take the time to make sure things are as level and plumb as can be, every step of the way. If multiple people are working on your building, you may each want to have a level. Make it your friend. The frame of the main building is up. An important note if your building is similar: until siding goes up or hat channel on the roof, clamp 2x4s between uprights to keep them stable and from bending or swaying in the wind or from their own weight. Double-check with your level as you go. Adding on to the building can cause things to shift. Checking As You Go As mentioned above, measuring carefully and checking that things are level both horizontally and vertically is really important and worth the time. It can really save you time in the long run and a lot of headaches as your building progresses. Hat channel on the roof relies on the rafters being level and evenly spaced. Roofing relies on level rafters and hat channel. Garage doors will be an even bigger challenge to hang and have function properly if your door jambs and headers aren't correctly spaced and level. And so on and so forth. In the photos below, you'll see that the overhang framework was added. This affected the leveling of the main frame of the building, so we had to recheck every upright and rafter and make some adjustments. In the second photo, the siding starts going up. If your uprights aren't level and in line, your siding will be wavy (like ours). Mistakes We Made ... and Want You to Avoid Here are some goofs we made—most people wouldn't notice most of them, but I know they're there—and things we learned the hard way. Some we could fix; others are goofs there to stay. 1. When adding the overhang, the inconsistency in the angles of the trusses threw off the level of the roof line. We had to make some adjustments while on ladders and scaffolds, removing tek screws, shifting parts and plates, and screwing them back on. Also, the addition of the overhang shifted the frame of the main building a bit. Had we installed the hat channel on the roof beforehand, this would have stabilized the building, and there would have been little to no shift. Problem was, the manufacturer had forgotten to put the hat channel on our trailer when we picked up the building, and we hadn't noticed soon enough. At this point, we were still waiting on those to be delivered to us (at no extra charge to us), so we continued building out of what should have been the order. Another good point to stress is making sure you have all parts and pieces on hand BEFORE you begin. 2. Here you see the hat channel, which we finally received, going on the roof. If your building is similar, be sure your spacing is even and that the hat channel is level. If any of them are off, you'll notice it when you put your roofing on. That steel sheeting doesn't hide imperfections very well at all. 3. Did you know that siding has a right side up? We didn't. And the instructions that came with the building were not clear on that bit. We overlapped the ridges and did our best to make sure the siding was going up evenly (from side to side) and level, but we had no idea our siding was upside down until an experienced neighbor-helper-friend pointed it out ... when the siding was almost finished. Does it make a significant difference, though? To us, not really ... although the seams are more significant with the siding upside down. 4. This wasn't a mistake, just something to think about. If you'll need to trim siding or cut it to the shape and slope of the building as we did, you'll either need to put it up temporarily to measure and mark, and then take it down to cut, OR put it up and cut it while in place. The manufacturer recommended the former. We chose the latter. We put it up and then used our angle grinder and tin snips to trim and cut it in place. 5. (Above) Remember I said that the overhang trusses made putting up the siding more of a challenge? You can probably see why in the photo, given how the trusses and rafters of the overhang connect with the building. Having horizontal siding made it MORE complicated, but even vertical siding would have required a lot of additional measuring, cutting, and maneuvering to get the siding up there. Even the manufacturer hadn't thought about that, and there were no specific instructions included. A follow-up call didn't help. So we figured it out on our own. So, another thing to think about when choosing a design. Also, the overhang and the extra space created by the hat channel between the rafters and the roofing means there's a gap of a couple of inches between the top of the siding and the roof. That's not really an issue for us, especially since our building is not insulated or supposed to be air-tight. But if that's an issue for you, consider how any overhangs will affect your building in that way. 6. (Below) When it came to the posts and tri-header for our overhang, we had a few issues that came together to create a problem. First, while the concrete caissons on the ground that we started with were perfect (thanks to the subcontractor), we didn't place the posts in exactly the same way on top of the caissons. Second, we didn't notice (because we didn't check carefully enough from the get-go) that one of the steel posts was not straight. It had been welded to its base a bit off, so it was bent a bit. That meant that the top of the post ended up leaning about half an inch to the side, which in turn meant that the spacing between the top of that post and the next was thrown off. Since those tri-headers you see in the photo were cut in order to meet in the middle of the top of each post, one tri-header ended up barely sitting on top. We had to add additional plates to ensure it was secure. You can see what I mean in the photo below, which shows the setup before we added the extra plates. 7. (Below again) It may be a little difficult to see in the photo, but there's a bit of a wave to the roofing. That's because those rafters aren't exactly even and level with one another. Like our other goofs, it doesn't affect the strength or stability of the building, which is held together with thousands of tek screws, but aesthetically it bugs me (I'll get over it ... eventually). Also, if you look on the far right, you'll see that we have one bit of roof sheeting to go, which will need to be cut lengthwise to fit. Thing is, it's not an even cut because that last bit is narrower at the top than the bottom of the roof/overhang. That's because we were off when we started from the left end of the building. Which is because my husband (shame, shame!) didn't carefully measure things, and the error continued down the line. While we made the adjustment on that last sheet on the right and cut it at an angle, it's yet another "imperfection" in the building ... that I know is there. So keep in mind that one goof can carry through to create others. Bay Doors: A Challenge of Their Own Beware of roll-up doors, which have springs. Those things can be dangerous, so make sure you're clear on the instructions and are very careful when installing. Experienced help is a big plus. These things are heavy, too, so either have the proper equipment to raise the door(s) into place or come up with a pulley system like we did (sorry, I don't have pictures of that). In our experience, it takes three people (four is better if you have the help) to raise and install these doors, especially if you're a novice.   You really want to ensure your door openings are the right size and the jambs and header are level, or you'll have difficulty installing the door(s). For one of ours, we had to add a steel extension on one jamb because it was too narrow to screw the door bracket into it. Properly tensioning the springs is also tricky. DIY Steel Building Project Complete: Not Perfect, But Solid All in all, considering the number of issues with quality control on the part of the manufacturer (parts cut incorrectly), missing parts and hardware that had to be shipped to us along the way, our lack of experience and our lack of care when it came to double-checking the lengths of parts, our own measurements and the level, the building ended up looking quite good overall, and it's definitely sturdy. We passed the county inspection with no problem and have been making good use of and enjoying our building, which is the first on our property. But there are a number of things we know now that we didn't know when we started and would do differently (or more carefully). If you have any questions about our experience with purchasing and building our steel workshop, please feel free to contact me or leave a comment or question below.

In September 2018, my husband and I signed the closing documents for 36 acres of undeveloped, off-grid land among the pinon pine, junipers, and meadows north of Williams, Arizona, and south of the Grand Canyon. We were (and still are) thrilled with our new property after several months of searching, looking at dozens of properties, and even backing out of a contract to purchase a different property. Along the way, we learned a great deal about what to ask about and look into when considering a rural parcel. We also learned that, while many real estate agents know their stuff when it comes to residential and urban properties, they don't necessarily know the ins and outs of rural real estate, so it's important to do your own thorough due diligence before signing that contract to purchase and ultimately buying land. While our experience is specific to northern Arizona—Coconino County in particular—I hope the knowledge we picked up will be helpful no matter where your property search takes you. Questions to Ask and Things to Know Before Buying Rural Property We didn't really know what questions to ask about rural properties we were interested in when we first started our search, and we learned (almost the hard way) that just because a property might look and feel like just the place to buy, reality isn't always so clear-cut or acceptable. These are some things to think and ask about: Is there legal access? The simplest legal access to a property exists when a parcel has frontage on a publicly accessible road. But sometimes, topography or water features may restrict access to the property from the road, or there may be one or more other privately owned parcels between the public road and the property. When the property cannot be accessed directly from the public road, an easement through other properties is required for a right of way. An easement is commonly described in deeds as providing ingress, egress, and regress from a property, across the land of one or more other properties, to a publicly accessible road. Legal access matters. One thing we found out about a property we almost purchased was that it did not have legal access, even though we could drive right to it. No legal access means the county would not issue any permits for building, solar, septic, etc. And if you build without a permit, that can lead to problems down the road, particularly when trying to finance a building project or resell the property. It can even lead to fines or, worse, an order to deconstruct a building in whole or in part. Be aware of the risks associated with purchasing a property that lacks legal access. See also: Should you buy property without legal access? Is there physical access, and is it the same as the legal access? Just because a parcel has deeded, legal access doesn't mean you can actually drive right to it. Perhaps no road has been created yet. Or maybe the route is there but difficult or even impossible to access by vehicle. Perhaps access is limited or not possible at certain times of the year. We looked at a property with beautiful views and other appealing features, but the legal access on the map did not actually exist "on the ground." There was, however, a good, unpaved road right to it ... but that road was not the actual legal access. It cut right through another yet undeveloped private property, but it was not a recorded easement. By the same token, a property may have physical access, but that physical access (via a road) may not actually be a legal access. Be sure to ask, rather than assuming based on what you see and how you drive to a property. Is the physical access to the property maintained or plowed? Does the county, city, or a private party hired by an HOA/POA take care of this? Or would you, the property owner, be responsible for maintaining the access to the property? Is there a survey? Surveys can cost thousands of dollars, so if one has already been done for the property you want to purchase, request a copy from the seller or, if recorded, you can request a copy from the jurisdiction's building inspector or the land records office. In addition to the property boundaries and corners, a survey will show any easements. See also: What is a Property Survey and Why is it Important? Are there easements? An easement is a legal right to cross or otherwise use someone else's land for a specified purpose. Most properties have one or more easements, including those for utilities, even if currently none exist. You'll also want to know if there are easements for access to other otherwise landlocked properties, which may be used for ingress/egress by other property owners, present or future. There are rules about what you can and cannot do within an easement on your own property, including, for example, installing fencing, which you may be required to set back the width of an easement rather than right on your property line. See Easements: Know Your Property Rights What are the setbacks? Setbacks are not a make-or-break thing when it comes to purchasing property, but you do want to know how far from the property lines you need to be when it comes to septic, buildings, fencing, etc. Setbacks are often different depending on the purpose of the setback and whether it's along a road versus other private property. There are also setbacks for water features and drainages, for example. Has a site inspection (septic test) been performed, and if so, what were the results? Many, if not the vast majority, of rural properties will require a septic system if you plan to have a dwelling of any kind on that land, because you can't just hook up to a municipal sewer system. The type of septic system required is determined by a site investigation (also known as a perk test, although that term is rarely used nowadays, at least where we live). Septic systems may be standard or conventional, or they may be alternative systems, which are much more expensive. A standard system may run $5,000–$8,000, while alternative systems can cost tens of thousands of dollars. So, find out if a septic test has been done on the property you're interested in, and if so, what the results were. If no test has been done yet, you may want to ask the seller to have one conducted. If the seller is unwilling to spend the money for the test, it's up to you, the prospective buyer, to decide how important it is for you to do one before purchasing the property. Septic tests/site investigations are specific to the location of the test. While one area of the property may pass for standard septic, other areas may not, so you'll need to decide where on the property you want to build, because your septic will need to be within a certain area of the test holes. This is particularly important on larger properties, where you have a variety of building site options and may prefer one over the others. Is there an HOA or POA? While many of us associate HOAs with urban, suburban, and rural residential properties, even some rural, multi-acre properties are part of an HOA, or more commonly a Property Owners' Association (POA). If so, I would find out who one or more of the board members are and give at least one of them a call before finalizing your purchase, just to make contact and get a feel for how they run their association and what they say the most important things are to know about living in the area. If yes to the above, what are the rules and fees, and what do those fees cover? In our case, the POA rules include provisions such as the percentage of trees that can be removed/cut on a property and limitations on the commercial use of a parcel, to name two of many. And our annual POA fees primarily go toward maintaining the cinder roads. Make sure you receive a copy of the CC&Rs if there is an HOA or POA associated with the property you're interested in buying .. and read them. While the level of enforcement of those rules varies by HOA/POA, it's always important to know what those rules are. Can you camp on your property? Both HOAs/POAs and the local jurisdiction (e.g., county) may impose limitations on if and when, and for what duration and under what circumstances you can camp on your own property, whether that's tent camping or in a travel trailer or RV. Some jurisdictions will require a permit to camp on your land and limit the number of days you can do so in a given year. Sometimes those rules are different once you have a building permit.   That said, many people camp on their rural properties even when it's not actually allowed by the rules and regs. Or they do so without a permit. And many never run into an issue. However, be aware of what the rules are and what CAN happen if you don't follow them. That way, at least you can decide if it's worth the risk and if you can accept the consequences if, say, someone complains and the HOA/POA and/or county comes a-callin'. Are utilities available, or is this off-the-grid property? Electricity, water, natural gas, telephone, cable/internet—all the services and utilities we're used to having curbside in urban, suburban, and even many rural residential areas often aren't as accessible, if at all, when it comes to rural properties. And, if you can get some or all of it to your property, the cost of doing so may be high or even prohibitive. So, if having these utilities is important to you, find out if any are available to the property and what costs you may incur to make that happen. If, by contrast, you WANT to be off the grid—to use solar, wind, and other alternative methods for power, for example—you may want to find out if other surrounding people and properties can bring in utilities and if that would mean seeing power lines and pipes go in, for example. Would that be okay with you if it were to happen? What will be the source of your potable water? Can you drill a well, have water delivered, or haul water? In our case, drilling a well would not be realistic, as the water table is thousands of feet below the surface. Many property owners in the area have water delivered and stored in a large cistern or multiple cisterns, then pumped into their homes. Some people haul water themselves, filling at local water stations and bringing it to their cisterns in tanks on the backs of their trucks or trailers. Other people collect and store rainwater (which can be used in conjunction with hauled or delivered potable water), which is what we plan to do. Note that rainwater should be (will need to be per code requirements in many areas) filtered before being used in the home. Is there trash pickup service? If not, where can you take your garbage? There is no weekly curbside pickup for trash or recycling where our property is located, though some residents have dumpsters and pay for a private company to come get/empty them periodically. If that is not an option available or one you prefer, find out where the local dump and recycling stations are located and what the costs will be for you. On a related note, living on rural property is a great incentive to cut down on waste. It's amazing how much you can do that with some forethought and effort, not to mention composting. Is there fencing, and is it on the property line with any required setbacks? Just because you see fencing doesn't mean it's where it's supposed to be. In our case, an old pasture fence associated with the ranch in the area cuts across the back of our property, with four acres of our parcel on the other side of that fence. People have assumed that that fence line is the boundary between what is now our property and the state land that borders us, so we've had to put up private property signs and attempt to block off a two-track that's been made by people driving along the fence, so it's a bit of an issue for us . . . though we did find that out before we closed on the property and were willing to accept it and deal with over time. Also, if there is fencing on the property that is not where it should be, find out whose fence that is and whether you can move or remove it. I say that because, as in our case, that pasture fence is the property of the ranch, and while it can be moved back to coincide with our property line, it would need to remain intact. The move or new fencing would be at our expense, not the ranch's. Is this an area of open range (free range) grazing? Related to the above comments about fencing, if open range grazing is permitted in your area and on the property you want to purchase, it's important to know your rights as an owner and the rules, which may surprise you. For one, if you don't want the animals—in many cases cattle—on all or part of your property, it is up to you to fence them out and you'd need to do so at your expense. There are also ramifications if a grazing animal gets hurt or is killed on your property and what the cause is. So educate yourself about what free range means to you if applicable to your property. Here is an overview of open range law from the University of Arizona: Arizona Open Range "Law" Other questions you should probably have the answers to before you buy would be: What are your water and mineral rights? What are the current property taxes? What is the soil and substrate like? Is it good for building, growing, etc.? Is the property or any part of it subject to flooding? What Other Questions Should You Ask? What have I left out? What other questions would you suggest prospective buyers of rural land ask when doing their due diligence? Please let me know in the comments below, and I'll add them to the list. A Word About Permits While many people who own rural property opt to build without first obtaining a permit (at least, in this area, many do) and without going through the associated inspection process, others prefer to deal with the added costs and sometimes frustrations of getting those required permits in order to avoid potential pitfalls of going forward without them. We fall into the latter category—which is not a commentary on anyone else's decision, just what we were most comfortable with. While the decision about obtaining permits for everything from houses to guest and tiny houses (sometimes known as accessory dwelling units), outbuildings, solar PV and septic systems and more is a personal choice, be aware of the risks of doing any of the before-mentioned projects (and other things) without a permit when a permit is technically required. Also, be aware that if you want to hire out building projects or parts thereof, it can be a challenge to find contractors or subcontractors, especially those who are licensed, who are willing to work without a permit in place. Also, if there are existing structures on the property you're interested in, were those structures built with permits (if they were required)? Know that it may be difficult, if not impossible, to obtain a loan or mortgage to purchase property where there are structures that were built without required permits. Consequently, if you build without a permit and later decide to sell, you may have to find a cash buyer who is willing to overlook this fact and has the money to buy without a loan or enter into an owner-carrier arrangement with you. Contact your jurisdiction's building department or visit its website to learn more about the requirements for permits, including when they are needed and what they cover. You can also ask questions about permit costs and code requirements. See also: 12 Important Things to Understand About Building Permits . This article is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge. Content is for informational or entertainment purposes only and does not substitute for personal counsel or professional advice in business, financial, legal, or technical matters. Have you bought rural property? Have you purchased rural land? How was the experience, and have I missed anything above?

Disclosure :  Some of the links on this page are affiliate links, and I may earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase. Is setting up a rainwater collection system for your entire home and garden cheap? No! Sure, you can save money with some DIY parts and pieces, but the upfront cost of a potable rainwater harvesting system can be significant depending on its size and storage capacity. That said, as water scarcity becomes a growing concern in many parts of the world and with so many people living in rural areas where municipal water isn't an option, more homeowners (like us!) are turning to sustainable solutions like rainwater harvesting. While this practice has long been used for irrigation, it’s increasingly being adopted for household use—including potable (drinkable) water. We installed a building-code-compliant potable rainwater harvesting system  that supplies all our household and gardening needs, and in this post, I’ll use our own setup as an example to share what it really cost us to get it up and running. I’ll break down the real costs involved, explore what you need for a fully functional system, and look at why this investment could pay off in more ways than one. Why Choose a Rainwater Harvesting System? For many homeowners, collecting rainwater is more than saving on water bills—it's about independence, sustainability, and securing a reliable water source. A potable system allows you to use harvested rainwater for drinking, cooking, bathing, and all other household needs , not just for gardening or flushing toilets. This makes it ideal for: Off-grid homes Rural properties with unreliable well or municipal water Eco-conscious households looking to reduce their environmental impact Preppers and self-reliant lifestyles But turning rainwater into safe, drinkable water involves more components and more cost than a simple barrel under a gutter. Components of a Potable Rainwater Harvesting System Before diving into the numbers, let’s look at what’s included in a full system designed for potable use: Catchment Surface : Typically your home’s roof. Metal roofing is preferred because it doesn’t leach harmful chemicals and is easier to clean. Gutters and Downspouts : These channel rainwater from the roof into your storage tanks. First-Flush Diverter : Removes the initial dirty runoff from the roof before it reaches your storage tank. Storage Tanks : These range from 500 gallons to over 10,000 gallons, depending on your usage and rainfall. Materials include plastic, fiberglass, or concrete. Filtration System : Sediment filters Activated carbon filters UV purification or reverse osmosis systems for disinfection Pumps and Pressure Tanks : To deliver water from the tank to your taps at usable pressure. Backup Systems  (optional): Integration with well water or city water in case of drought. Each of these components adds to the overall cost—but also to the system's reliability and safety. How Much Does a Potable Rainwater Harvesting System Cost? The cost can vary widely based on location, system size, and whether you install it yourself or hire professionals. Here’s a general breakdown: Component Estimated Cost Range Gutters and Downspouts $500 – $2,000 First Flush Diverters $100 – $300 Storage Tanks (2,500–15,000 gallons) $1,000 – $10,000+ Filtration System $1,000 – $3,000 UV or RO Disinfection $800 – $2,000 Pump and Pressure System $700 – $2,500 Installation Labor $2,000 – $10,000+ Permits & Engineering $300 – $2,000 Total Estimated Cost $6,400 – $31,800+ These are ballpark figures, and actual costs can go higher or lower depending on specific needs, climate, and regional construction costs. For example, if you’re in a dry climate, you may need to invest in larger tanks to get through long dry periods. Conversely, in wetter areas, you can downsize your tank and save significantly. Here is a table similar to the one above with costs for our own rainwater harvesting system here in Northern Arizona: Component Our cost (2021/22) Gutters and downspouts on garage/shop, installed $2,200 Gutters, downspouts, and first flushes on house, installed $2,890 (3) 5,000-gallon cisterns plus delivery (CA to AZ) $10,174 Filtration system (US Water Systems) $300 Quantum disinfection system  (US Water Systems) $500 Pump and pressure system $900 Excavation and installation for cisterns, trenching for water lines $2,300 Permitting Included in permit cost for home construction Total Cost $19,264 Want to know more about how our system is working out? See: Rainwater Harvesting in Arizona: How We Live Off the Rain in the High Desert . Real-World Considerations 1. Maintenance and Upkeep Even the best system requires regular maintenance: Cleaning or replacing filters and replacing UV bulbs (if you have that type of disinfection) Inspecting gutters and diverters Tank cleaning Testing water quality periodically Annual maintenance costs can potentially range from $100 to $500, especially if you hire someone to service your system and have to purchase new filters. 2. Permits and Codes If your system is for potable use and part of new construction, you’ll likely need to comply with local building codes and health regulations . Some jurisdictions require inspections, engineered plans, or certifications for filtration systems. Make sure to check with your local health department or building authority before installing. 3. DIY vs. Professional Installation A DIY installation can significantly lower costs, especially if you’re handy and already have some infrastructure and tools and equipment. But potable systems have stricter safety requirements, so hiring a professional can ensure everything is up to code—and safe to drink. Is It Worth the Investment? While the upfront cost of a potable rainwater harvesting system  can be significant, there are many long-term benefits: Lower water Bills or no water bills : In some areas, municipal water is expensive, and the savings can add up quickly. Water security : Particularly important in drought-prone or wildfire-prone regions. Environmental impact : Reduces reliance on groundwater and centralized water systems. Increased property value : A well-installed system can be a strong selling point for eco-conscious buyers. And it's satisfying , too! Plus, many states and municipalities offer rebates or tax incentives  for installing rainwater harvesting systems, especially if they're designed to reduce stormwater runoff or supplement municipal supply. Final Thoughts Investing in a potable rainwater harvesting system isn’t just a lifestyle choice—it’s a long-term investment in resilience, sustainability, and health. Whether you’re off-grid, preparing for emergencies, or just want cleaner, more sustainable water, a well-designed system can provide all your household water needs, including safe, drinkable water year-round. If you’re considering making the switch, start by assessing your water usage, roof size, and rainfall. Then consult with professionals or experienced DIYers to design a system that meets your needs—and your budget. Questions about the costs of a potable rainwater harvesting system for your home ? Please leave them in the comments. Written by Deb Kingsbury Living on a 36-acre off-grid property in northern Arizona, Deb and her husband Jeremy embrace sustainable living through solar power, rainwater harvesting, and a passive solar home built with recycled polystyrene block. A freelance writer and editor, Deb grows food in raised beds and a greenhouse and is an avid hiker and backpacker. A long-time search & rescue volunteer, she has published two novels and previously homesteaded on the East Coast.

Disclaimer: I may receive a commission for purchases made through some of the links in this post. When we first got our shipping container, we knew we wanted to do more with it than just use it for storage while we were building our house. With good southwestern exposure on one long side and a growing interest in extending our planting season—not to mention protect plants from all of the elements and critters that do a good job of killing or eating them here in northern Arizona—we decided to build a lean-to style shipping container greenhouse , and it's become a year-round space for a variety of edibles. We worked with the owners of Steady Harvest , who used my simple sketch to help us bring this idea to life. The greenhouse structure is a lean-to design, with one long side of the shipping container forming the back wall . This gave us both structural support and thermal mass to help regulate temperatures inside. This is the sketch I gave them, which they used to design the greenhouse: We didn't end up using the EF Block (which is a brand of ICF block we had left over from the construction of our house) as shown in my sketch, so the bottom rail of the greenhouse sits on the ground instead. The framing is galvanized steel pipe, with translucent polycarbonate panels of a product called Solex for the roof and side walls, and a long roll-up screened side for airflow. The doors at either end also have screened windows we can open for additional ventilation. The roll-up side and floor of the greenhouse are lined with 1/4-inch hardware cloth to keep out the field mice, pack rats, and bunnies, who all want to eat what we grow. But the wee lizards and some pollinators can still get in (we sometimes prop the doors open during the day to let the bees easily come and go). The photos below show the greenhouse during and after construction was complete. Adding Rainwater Collection to our Shipping Container Greenhouse To make our greenhouse more self-sufficient, we installed a simple rainwater harvesting system . We mounted a vinyl gutter along the roofline on the roll-up side, which channels rainwater directly into an IBC tote  positioned at the back end of the greenhouse. The tote is fitted with a black zippered cover to minimize algae growth in the warmer months and help protect the water from freezing during winter. It’s an easy upgrade that makes a big difference—sometimes capturing hundreds of gallons from just a single rainfall and giving us a steady supply for the plants inside. Adding Ventilation to our Shipping Container Greenhouse Even with our roll-up sidewalls and screened doors at both ends, we quickly realized our greenhouse needed more ventilation to keep things cool during the warm and hot months. To solve this, we added a pair of automatic louvered vents  to the upper section of the greenhouse wall above the shipping container. These vents open on their own when the inside temperature hits a set point, thanks to an autovent cylinder  that expands and pushes the louvers open—no electricity needed. The vents automatically close when the temperature falls back to a lower set point. The vents have made a huge difference in reducing heat buildup, especially during peak sun hours. Because they’re placed high up, they help release rising hot air efficiently and keep the air inside the greenhouse circulating. If you’re building your own greenhouse or retrofitting one like we did, adding solar-powered or thermally activated vents  can be a game-changer for passive climate control. As you can see in the photo above, we also use some greenhouse shade cloth inside, which we can slide across the steel frame as needed to further diffuse the sun and protect plants during the hottest summer months. (Shade cloth can also be used over the exterior of the greenhouse, which is more effective for climate control.) Building a Custom Shipping Container Greenhouse This 12x20-foot greenhouse has become one of our favorite places on the property. It’s where we start seeds, harvest greens for dinner, and escape into something green and growing even in the middle of winter. It’s also been a great teacher—showing us what works, what doesn’t, and how a bit of creativity (and a few practical upgrades) can turn a simple idea into something that truly supports our way of living. If you’re dreaming up a greenhouse of your own, we hope our setup gives you some ideas to run with. Our custom shipping container greenhouse is featured on the Steady Harvest website , where you can order it (we would not receive a commission from that) if you'd like to do something similar. Do you have a shipping container greenhouse or questions about ours? Let us know in the comments.

Home Rainwater Harvesting and Filtration System Disclosure :  Some of the links on this page are affiliate links, and I may earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase. Written by Deb Kingsbury Living on a 36-acre off-grid property in northern Arizona, Deb and her husband Jeremy embrace sustainable living through solar power, rainwater harvesting, and a passive solar home built with recycled polystyrene block. A freelance writer and editor, Deb grows food in raised beds and a greenhouse and is an avid hiker and backpacker. A long-time search & rescue volunteer, she has published two novels and previously homesteaded on the East Coast. Collecting and filtering rainwater is a sustainable practice that can significantly reduce your dependence on external water sources. With a few simple, cost-effective do-it-yourself (DIY) methods, you can help ensure your harvested rainwater is clean and safe for various household uses. Here are some practical steps to help you set up an effective rainwater filtration system. 1. First Flush Diverter First-flush diverters, also called roof washers, are essential for any rainwater harvesting system . Their main purpose is to redirect the initial flow of rainwater, which typically contains roof contaminants like dirt, leaves, insects, and bird droppings. First flush diverter aka roof washer Materials Needed: Vertical PVC Drain Pipe - This will be the main body of the diverter. Plain T PVC Pipe Fitting - To connect the drain pipe to the rest of the system. 90 Degree PVC Pipe Fitting - To direct the flow of water. Threaded PVC Access Coupling - For easy access and maintenance. Threaded PVC Cap with O-Ring or Ball Valve - To seal the bottom of the diverter. Floating Ball - This ball is placed inside the diverter chamber. As the first flush of water fills the chamber, the ball rises with the water level. Ball Seat - Once the chamber is full, the ball seats itself at the top of the chamber, preventing any more water from entering the diverter. This ensures that only the cleaner water flows into the main storage tank. Non-Pressure PVC Cement (Glue) - To secure all the fittings together. OR, you can purchase a first flush diverter kit with all the parts and pieces and just add the vertical pipe. This first flush diverter has a slow-release valve that automatically drains the chamber while in use, keeping it ready for the next rainfall. To install a DIY first flush diverter, you need to set up a T-junction in your downspout. Attach a vertical pipe with a removable end cap or ball valve to this junction. As rain fills the pipe, the ball rises and eventually seals it, allowing cleaner water to pass through into your storage tank. This simple setup ensures that the dirtiest water is diverted away from your clean water supply. Here's a good how-to video about building your own DIY first-flush diverter... 2. Sand and Gravel Filter A sand and gravel filter is an excellent method for removing larger particles and sediments from your collected rainwater. It’s a straightforward system that you can set up with readily available materials. Materials Needed: Large container Coarse gravel Fine gravel Sand Spigot Container Selection: For the large container, you can use a  food-grade plastic barrel  or bucket or a  large plastic storage bin . These containers are durable, easy to clean, and readily available. Make sure the container is large enough to hold the layers of gravel and sand and has a lid to prevent contamination. Another option is a food-grade bucket with a spigot already included. Setting Up the Filter: Drill a hole  near the bottom of the container for the outlet. Attach a spigot or faucet to this hole to allow easy access to the filtered water. Layering : Start with a layer of coarse gravel at the bottom, followed by a layer of fine gravel, and finally, a top layer of sand. The layers should be thick enough to effectively filter the water but leave enough space for the water to flow through. Using the Filter: Pour the collected rainwater into the top of the filter. The water will pass through the sand and gravel layers, which will trap and remove debris and larger particles. The filtered water will collect at the bottom of the container and can be accessed through the spigot . 3. Charcoal Filter Charcoal filters are known for their ability to adsorb odors, chemicals, and various impurities, significantly improving the taste and quality of your rainwater. You can either buy activated charcoal or make your own by heating regular charcoal. Materials Needed: Activated charcoal or regular charcoal Container with a mesh bottom Container to catch filtered water Container Selection: For the container with a mesh bottom, you can use a  stainless steel colander  or a  plastic colander . These containers are designed to allow water to pass through while holding the charcoal in place. Ensure the mesh is fine enough to prevent the charcoal from falling through but still allow water to flow freely. Setting Up the Filter: Place the charcoal in the colander. Position the colander over a larger container to catch the filtered water. Pour the collected rainwater through the charcoal layer in the colander. The water will pass through the charcoal, which will adsorb impurities and improve the water’s quality. 4. Simple Solar Still A simple solar still is an effective DIY method that uses solar energy to distill water, removing impurities and pathogens. This method might be a bit more labor-intensive, but is worth the effort for the purity of the water it produces. Materials Needed: Shovel Clear plastic sheet Small container Small rock To build a solar still, dig a pit and place a container at its center. Cover the pit with clear plastic, making sure it slopes toward the container. Place a small rock on the plastic above the container to create a drip point for condensation. As the sun heats the pit, water evaporates, condenses on the plastic, and drips into the container, leaving contaminants behind. 5. Ceramic Filters Ceramic filters are highly effective at filtering out bacteria and fine particles from your rainwater. They are simple to use and require minimal maintenance. Materials Needed: Ceramic filter (This is a ceramic bucket water filter kit) Bucket or container To set up a ceramic filter, place it in a bucket or another container. Pour the rainwater through the ceramic filter and allow it to pass through slowly. The porous nature of the ceramic material traps bacteria and other small particles, providing you with clean, safe water for household use. Potable Rainwater Storage Proper storage of your filtered rainwater is crucial to maintain its quality and prevent contamination. Using food-grade barrels or tanks is highly recommended for this purpose. Ensure your storage containers are always covered to keep out debris and insects. Additionally, use a rain barrel screen at the water inlet or mesh cover to further prevent any unwanted particles from entering the storage tank. Keeping your storage containers clean and covered will help maintain the quality of your harvested rainwater over time. Maintenance Tips Regular maintenance is essential to ensure the efficiency of your rainwater filtration system. Here are some tips to keep your system running smoothly: Clean your gutters and downspouts regularly to prevent clogging and contamination. Use downspout gutter guards and leaf filters . Replace filter materials periodically to maintain their effectiveness. Test the quality of your water occasionally to ensure it meets your needs and is safe for use. Recommended Water Filtration and Disinfection Products If the DIY route isn't for you or you need a rainwater filtration and disinfection system that will pass your area's building code, we recommend products like these from U.S. Water Systems , which is what we use in our home (pictured below): Filtration: US Water Big Blue 4.5 X 20 Dual Filtration System Disinfection: Pulsar Quantum Disinfection System - 10 GPM Ensuring Clean Water with DIY Rainwater Filtration Setting up a DIY rainwater filtration system doesn't have to be expensive or complicated. With a bit of effort and some basic materials, you can create an effective system that provides clean water for your household. Embrace these cost-effective methods, and you'll be well on your way to a more sustainable and self-sufficient lifestyle. Rainwater Filtering FAQs 1. Why is it important to use a first flush diverter in a rainwater harvesting system? A first flush diverter is crucial because it redirects the initial flow of rainwater, which often contains contaminants like dirt, leaves, and bird droppings from the roof. By diverting this dirty water, you ensure that cleaner water enters your storage tank. 2. How do sand and gravel filters remove particles from rainwater? Sand and gravel filters create layers of coarse gravel, fine gravel, and sand inside a container. As rainwater passes through these layers, larger particles and sediments are trapped, resulting in cleaner water. 3. What are the benefits of using a charcoal filter in rainwater filtration? Charcoal filters effectively absorb odors, chemicals, and various impurities from rainwater. This significantly improves the taste and quality of the water, making it more suitable for household use. 4. How does a simple solar still purify rainwater? A simple solar still uses solar energy to distill water. The still removes impurities and pathogens by evaporating water and then condensing it. The process involves digging a pit, placing a container at the center, covering it with clear plastic, and allowing condensation to drip into the container. 5. What are the key maintenance tips for a DIY rainwater filtration system? To maintain an efficient rainwater filtration system, you should regularly clean gutters and downspouts, replace filter materials periodically, and test the quality of your water occasionally. These steps ensure that your system continues to provide clean and safe water.

The choices we make every day—what we eat, wear, and buy—affect not just our personal health but also the environment we all share. So, what if there was a way to align our well-being with the planet's health? This is the heart of sustainable wellness, a topic explored beautifully by wholistic health practitioner Melissa Tohlakai in her video, "Sustainable Wellness: The Intersection of Health and Environmental Responsibility,"  from her streaming show The Natural Path . In this post, I’ll share some ways that sustainable choices can transform our health and the environment. These actionable tips can help us start or enhance our journeys toward sustainable wellness. And don’t forget to check out Melissa’s video below for deeper insights and practical advice. What Is Sustainable Wellness? Sustainable wellness is the balance between nurturing your health and reducing your environmental footprint. It’s about recognizing the interconnectedness of personal and planetary health—what we do to the earth directly impacts us. Melissa describes this as the reflection between the microcosm  (our bodies) and the macrocosm  (the environment). By making small, mindful changes, we can tread more lightly on the planet while enhancing our well-being. 5 Actionable Steps to Embrace Sustainable Wellness Here are some practical ways to get started: 1. Rethink What You Consume Ask yourself before purchasing: Do I really need this? Opt for sustainable and organic options. For example, choose items grown without harmful chemicals or excessive resource use when buying produce. Reduce reliance on heavily processed foods and opt for local, in-season produce to cut down on food miles. 2. Minimize Chemical Exposure Switch to natural cleaning products like vinegar and baking soda to reduce your exposure to harsh chemicals and pollutants. Choose skincare and personal care products with minimal ingredients and sustainable packaging. Look for shampoo bars or refillable containers to cut down on waste. 3. Grow Your Own Food Start with small raised garden beds or no-dig gardens to grow vegetables, herbs, or fruits at home. Compost kitchen scraps to nourish your soil, reducing waste while improving the quality of your home-grown produce. If space is limited, consider container gardening or even windowsill herb pots. 4. Make Conscious Building Choices Avoid materials that release harmful chemicals into your home, such as pressed wood products with formaldehyde-based adhesives. Explore repurposing materials or sourcing second-hand items for home projects. For example, Melissa repurposed filing cabinets as raised garden beds—an innovative and sustainable idea! 5. Reduce Plastic Use Bring reusable bags, jars, or containers when shopping. Avoid single-use plastics by buying in bulk or choosing minimally packaged goods. Opt for sustainable alternatives like beeswax wraps instead of plastic wrap. Why These Changes Matter The choices we make in daily life have a ripple effect. From reducing waste to improving soil health and lowering greenhouse gas emissions, every small effort contributes to a healthier environment. Even better, sustainable habits can save money and simplify your life while enhancing your health. Watch: Sustainable Wellness with Melissa Tohlakai For a deeper dive into sustainable wellness and how to make impactful choices, watch Melissa Tohlakai’s insightful video , Sustainable Wellness: The Intersection of Health and Environmental Responsibility . She covers topics like: The environmental and health effects of intensive farming and monocropping. Tips for reducing your exposure to harmful chemicals in your home and diet. The benefits of adopting practices like composting, regenerative agriculture, and more. Your Next Step Toward Sustainable Living Small steps add up, whether it’s growing your own food, reducing waste, or supporting local farmers. As Melissa says, "Every little change makes a difference."  So start where you are—be it swapping one product for a more sustainable option or rethinking your weekly grocery list. Together, we can create a healthier planet for future generations while taking control of our own well-being.

Disclosure :  Some of the links on this page are affiliate links, and I may earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase. Written by Deb Kingsbury Living on a 36-acre off-grid property in northern Arizona, Deb and her husband Jeremy embrace sustainable living through solar power, rainwater harvesting, and a passive solar home built with recycled polystyrene block. A freelance writer and editor, Deb grows food in raised beds and a greenhouse and is an avid hiker and backpacker. A long-time search & rescue volunteer, she has published two novels and previously homesteaded on the East Coast. We looked into rammed earth and strawbale. We considered cob and adobe brick. And earthship construction. And hempcrete and repurposed shipping containers, too. You name it, and if it was an innovative, sustainable building material, we probably explored it for the home we were planning to build at 36-Acre Wood . Then the architect who was designing our passive solar, off-grid house with a potable rainwater system  introduced us to what was behind his own plastered and stuccoed walls: insulated concrete forms (ICF) , specifically EF Block™ in our case (EF = Earth Friendly). As we had with the other materials, we weighed the pros and cons—there were more of the former than the latter for us—and we were sold. In a world increasingly focused on sustainability, builders and homeowners, including owner-builders like us, are seeking innovative solutions that combine environmental consciousness with structural integrity, not to mention affordability. Enter ICF block —a game-changer in sustainable construction. These innovative building materials combine the strength of concrete with the insulating properties of recycled foam. In this blog post, we’ll cover what ICF blocks are, how they’re made, their properties, how to build with them, and the pros and cons. ICF Block Table of Contents What Are Insulated Concrete Forms (ICFs)? How Are ICF Blocks Made? Properties of ICF Blocks How To Build with ICF Block ICF Pros and Cons Types of ICF Block What Can ICF Block Be Used For? More About EF Block™ Where Else To Buy ICF Block What Are Insulated Concrete Forms (ICFs)? ICF blocks are a construction system that uses rigid formwork to create reinforced concrete walls. They consist of lightweight interlocking foam blocks that serve as insulation and formwork to create the skeleton of your building. Once the blocks are in place, concrete is poured into their hollow centers, resulting in a sturdy, well-insulated, energy-efficient structure. But here’s the twist—they’re not just any foam; they’re made from recycled expanded polystyrene (EPS) , commonly known as Styrofoam. So, instead of it ending up in the landfill and sitting there for about 500 years, you can build a very well-insulated, durable, and fire-resistant home with it, among other things. How Are ICF Blocks Made? As mentioned, the blocks are primarily made from recycled Styrofoam (8% in the case of EF Block). The EPS foam is molded into interlocking sections, resembling oversized Lego bricks, with minimal waste.  These blocks are lightweight—our 5-foot x 1-foot x 10” blocks weigh about 45 lbs each—easy to handle, and provide excellent thermal insulation. The interlocking design simplifies installation, making it a favorite among DIY builders and some general contractors we know who appreciate efficiency and sustainability. Properties of ICF Blocks When it comes to sustainable construction, ICF stands out. These foam blocks offer more than meets the eye. 🏗️🌿 Structural Strength and Durability : ICF construction combines the strength of concrete with the insulation properties of foam, resulting in robust and durable walls. Energy Efficiency : ICF walls offer exceptional thermal performance. The foam insulation keeps indoor temperatures stable, reducing your reliance on heating and cooling systems. Our EF Blocks have an R rating of 40.  Soundproofing : The foam insulation dampens sound, creating quieter indoor spaces. Fire Resistance : ICF walls are fire-resistant, protecting against flames and high temperatures. Air-Sealing : The snug fit of the interlocking blocks creates airtight walls, minimizing drafts and keeping your home comfortable year-round. Affordability : At least when we were building, ICF construction cost considerably less than lumber. Including the rebar and concrete pours, our cost was about $7 per linear foot.  Flexibility : While they don’t actually bend, ICF blocks lend themselves to creative designs, including arches, curves, and even sculpted walls. How To Build with ICF Block So, you’ve decided to embrace sustainable construction and dive into the world of ICF. But wait—aren’t these high-tech foam blocks reserved for seasoned contractors?  No, ICFs aren’t just for the pros; they’re also a friendly companion for owner-builders . With a relatively small learning curve (which the company we purchased from provides upon request), ICF blocks are easy to work with and forgiving, too, if you make a mistake. So, with a dash of education and a sprinkle of determination, you can stack ICFs like a pro in no time. 🌱🔨 Here are the basic steps: Foundation : Start by laying ICF blocks for the foundation and stem wall. It’s like assembling a giant puzzle but with more concrete and fewer missing pieces. The blocks can be joined with mortar, like brick-laying, or with a special glue. Wall Construction : To reuse the analogy, stack the ICF blocks like Lego bricks. Ours are offset like a brick wall, but we’ve seen a large home built with ICF blocks by stacking them in line, directly on top of each other. Reinforcing steel (rebar) is placed inside the blocks to enhance structural integrity. Pouring Concrete : Once the blocks are in place, pour concrete into the hollow cores. The concrete bonds with the foam, creating a solid wall. Note that we built our ICF in stages, beginning with the stem wall and then going up about four or five layers of block at a time. We did this due to county code requirements, with an inspection at each level. Finishing : After curing, you can finish the walls with various materials, such as stucco, siding, or plaster. ICF Pros and Cons The pros have the upper hand here. Pros of ICF Construction: Strength : ICF walls are robust and resistant to natural disasters. ICF homes feel secure… because they are. Material Efficiency : Earth-friendly ICFs use less concrete compared to some traditional methods. ICFs reduce waste and promote recycling. Time-Saving : ICFs speed up the building process with their quick installation due to interlocking blocks.  Energy Savings : Excellent insulation reduces heating and cooling costs. (Our passive solar ICF home stays comfortably warm in the winter, even in freezing temps, without additional heat. The only time we use the wood stove is when we have a stretch of two or more cloudy days with freezing temps.)  Quietude : Enjoy peace and quiet (unless maybe your closest neighbor plays the bagpipes). ICF block doesn’t block all outside sound, of course (and I don’t think anyone would want it to), but it does dampen it quite a lot. We often don’t even hear the noisy UPS truck drive up.  Cons of ICF Construction: Cost : ICF construction can be slightly more expensive upfront than some other methods (but less than others). Learning Curve : Contractors and owner-builders need some training to work with ICFs effectively. Curing Time : Concrete curing may take longer due to insulation. Types of ICF Block Insulated concrete forms come in various categories: Flat-Panel ICFs : These ICFs consist of flat panels that interlock to create the formwork. They’re versatile and suitable for both residential and commercial projects. Grid Systems : Grid-style ICFs have a grid pattern, allowing for precise placement of reinforcing steel (rebar). They’re popular for walls with complex shapes. Block-and-Panel Systems : These combine the benefits of flat panels and traditional block forms. The panels provide insulation, while the blocks offer structural support. The EF Block™ we used leans toward the block-and-panel approach, emphasizing insulation and strength. Post-and-Beam ICFs : These ICFs are designed for larger spans, such as creating arches or vaulted ceilings. They use vertical posts and horizontal beams. Tapered ICFs : Tapered forms allow for curved walls, making them ideal for unique structures. They’re often used in custom homes and artistic projects. What Can ICF Block Be Used For? If it can be built, it can probably be built with ICF blocks. While they're primarily used in construction to create energy-efficient and resilient buildings, they can also be used in various other creative ways. Here are some common applications: Residential Construction : ICFs are widely used to build energy-efficient homes. They can be used for single-story residential and commercial buildings, high-rise projects, basements, underground homes, or entire multi-story homes. Some builders use only insulated concrete foundation forms and combine them with other building methods above ground. Commercial Buildings : ICFs have found applications in commercial construction, particularly for structures that require strong thermal performance and fire resistance. Commercial ICF construction has strict standards, codes, budgets, and timelines to follow. Multi-story Buildings : ICF blocks have been used for walls surpassing 40 feet of unsupported height. The tallest ICF structure is a 23-story building in Waterloo, Ontario. Disaster-Resistant Buildings : Due to their strength and durability, ICFs are often used in regions subject to regular hurricanes. They exceed safety, resilience, and durability requirements for FEMA-ATFP Federal Military Standards. Custom Homes and Specialty Projects : ICFs can also be used for custom homes and specialty projects with unique, creative designs. We’ve also seen ICF blocks used to create public benches and planters, and we’ve used leftover blocks for these applications on our own property. Here are some ways ICF block lends itself to unique, creative designs: Flexibility in Design : ICFs are flexible and can accommodate most any size or style of design a homeowner or architect can dream up. They're simple to cut and shape. Customized Architectural Effects : ICFs can include customized architectural effects, such as curved walls, large openings, long ceiling spans, custom angles, and cathedral ceilings. This allows for the creation of unique and aesthetically pleasing designs. Sculptural Walls : The strength and flexibility of concrete allow ICFs to be used for creating sculptural walls. These can be custom-designed and shaped to fit the specific needs of a project. Outdoor Structures : Beyond buildings, ICFs can also be used for constructing outdoor structures like benches, planters, and even sculptural elements. Their durability makes them suitable for these applications. Artistic Designs : Creative and artistic architects design unique and beautiful structures that reflect the owners and culture. ICFs provide a superior architectural design solution for any home or building style. More About EF Block™ EF BlockTM is an innovative ICF product manufactured by Earth Friendly Building Materials LLC (EFBM), established in 1990. These blocks are easy to stack and shape, allowing for versatile construction designs. EFBM, based in Arizona, has been involved with over 10,000 completed ICF projects throughout the US and Mexico. While most ICF products share the same qualities, we chose EF BlockTM because the company's owners happened to have a home in our area and were very responsive to our calls and emails. They connected us with a local subcontractor who’d built his own home with their ICF product and was able to assist us with ours.  Here are the details about EF BlockTM: Built-in Thermal Insulation : EF BlockTM has thermal insulative qualities equivalent to an R-40 insulation rating. Hurricane (Wind) Resistance : These blocks are 700% stronger than a typical 2x6 frame with a 1/2-inch shear wall. Mold and Mildew Resistance : EF BlockTM keeps your home mold-free and fresh. Fire Resistance : EF BlockTM has a 4-hour fire rating, which is beneficial for those who live in an area at risk from wildfires. Easy Installation : EF BlockTM is fairly easy to install, saving construction time and labor costs. Bug Resistance:  Termites won’t nibble on these blocks. Green Building Material : Made from 87% recycled post-consumer Styrofoam, EF BlockTM is a sustainable choice. Other ICF brands may have different features, shapes, and sizes. Some emphasize ease of installation, while others prioritize specific performance characteristics. For more information about this type of ICF block, as well as the Earth Friendly Building Material’s gallery , training program, and their role as Arizona’s #1 EPS recycler, check out their website at EFBM.com . (Note that we’re not affiliated with this company in any way and don’t earn any commission if you click this link and end up purchasing from them. We’re simply past customers who were happy with their service and very happy with the product.) . Where Else To Buy ICF Block If you’re looking to purchase i nsulated concrete forms   for your construction project, here are some other retailers and stores, among many, that sell and ship them: ICF Supply Co. BuildBlock Building Systems Alibaba Insulated Concrete Form Supply Inc. eBay Amvic Building Systems ICF blocks aren’t just building materials; they’re a sustainable lifestyle choice. So, whether you’re constructing a cozy cottage or a modern mansion, consider the ICF alternative.   🌿🏠🔨 ICF Block FAQs What is ICF block, and why is it considered a sustainable building solution? ICF (Insulated Concrete Form) blocks are high-tech foam blocks used in construction. They provide excellent insulation, reduce heating and cooling costs, use less concrete than traditional methods, and promote recycling, making them a sustainable building solution. How do you construct a wall using ICF blocks? To construct a wall with ICF blocks, you start by laying the blocks for the foundation and stem wall. Stack the blocks like Lego bricks, place reinforcing steel (rebar) inside, and then pour concrete into the hollow cores. Finish the walls with stucco, siding, or plaster after the concrete cures. What are the pros and cons of using ICF blocks in construction? Pros include strength, material efficiency, time-saving, energy savings, and noise reduction. Cons include a higher upfront cost, a learning curve for proper installation, and potentially longer concrete curing times due to insulation. What types of ICF blocks are available for different construction needs? Types of ICF blocks include Flat-Panel ICFs, Grid Systems, Block-and-Panel Systems, Post-and-Beam ICFs, and Tapered ICFs. Each type offers different benefits, such as versatility, structural support, and the ability to create unique designs. What are some common applications for ICF blocks in construction? ICF blocks are used in residential construction, commercial buildings, multi-story buildings, disaster-resistant buildings, and custom homes. They can also be used for outdoor structures, public benches, planters, and sculptural elements.

Disclosure :  Some of the links on this page are affiliate links, and I may earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase. Winter can be a challenging season if you’re harvesting rainwater for year-round use. Freezing temps threaten your rain barrels, cisterns, and water cubes, potentially leading to damage or inaccessible (frozen) water. Fortunately, with a few strategies and the right tools, you can keep your rainwater collection system functional and flowing all year. In this post, I’ll share some tips, tools, and products to help you keep your rainwater containers—barrels, totes (a/k/a cubes), cisterns, etc.—and spigots from freezing. Why Protect Rainwater Barrels from Freezing? Rainwater harvesting systems aren’t just about collecting water—they’re about saving it for use when you need it. When water freezes, it expands. This can crack barrels, burst cisterns, and warp water cubes, potentially leading to pricey repairs or replacements. Even if your container doesn’t break, frozen water is obviously unusable when needed, whether for irrigation, cleaning, drinking, or other household uses. Keeping your rainwater barrels from freezing also ensures your system is ready to catch and store more water during winter thaws or early spring rains. Tips for Keeping Rainwater from Freezing 1. Choose Insulated Rain Barrels or Add Insulation Insulation is one of the simplest ways to protect your rain barrels or water cubes from freezing. Wrapping your container in insulating materials can significantly reduce heat loss. What to Use: Bubble Wrap Insulation:  A cost-effective way to cover barrels. Look for heavy-duty, UV-resistant options like Reflectix Double Bubble Insulation . Barrel Covers:  Products like IBC Tote Covers  are specifically designed for this purpose. Spigot Covers : We use insulated outdoor faucet covers for all of the above-ground spigots on our barrels and tanks. 2. Keep Water Moving Circulating water is less likely to freeze. Installing a small pump or aerator in your rain barrel or cistern can keep water moving enough to prevent freezing. Product Suggestion: Solar-Powered Fountain Pumps:  A simple fountain pump like the AISITIN 3.5W Solar Fountain Pump  can work for small barrels. Submersible Aquarium Pumps:  Reliable and affordable options include the Tetra Whisper Submersible Pump . 3. Install a Heating Element If you live in an area with prolonged freezing temperatures, adding a heating element can provide some peace of mind. These devices gently warm the water, keeping it liquid without excessive energy use. Product Suggestion: Stock Tank Heaters:  A 1500-watt floating de-icer   works well for larger cisterns or cubes, while a 500-watt de-icer can work for containers up to 50 gallons. Like those linked here, just be sure that a de-icer can be used with the type of tank (metal, plastic, etc.) that you have. Heated Barrel Wraps:  Options like the Beamnova Drum Heater  are suitable for 55-gallon drums. 4. Bury or Partially Submerge Containers Earth is a natural insulator, maintaining a stable temperature even in winter. If feasible, bury or partially submerge your rainwater cistern or cube. Tip:  Combine this method with insulation to maximize protection. Choosing the Right Method for Your System Not every solution works for every setup. Here’s a quick guide to match your rainwater collection container with the best freeze-protection strategies: Container Type Best Methods Rain Barrels Insulation, heating wraps, moving water Water Cisterns Stock tank heaters, partial burial Water Cubes Insulation, indoor storage Bonus: Repurpose Overflow in Winter While protecting rainwater from freezing, don’t forget about overflow. Winter rains can still fill your system. Use overflow water for: Irrigating evergreen plants Creating ice-free zones in birdbaths Cleaning tools, vehicles, etc. Product Suggestion: Flexible Overflow Kits:  An overflow adapter kit  can help channel excess water for other uses. Winter-Proofing Your Rainwater Barrels: How to Keep Them from Freezing Rainwater harvesting doesn’t have to stop when temperatures drop. With the right tools, techniques, and a little prep, you can protect your rain barrels, cisterns, and cubes from freezing and keep your system functional all winter. Whether it’s insulating your containers, adding a heater, or simply moving smaller systems indoors, there’s a solution (or combination of solutions) for every setup. Written by Deb Kingsbury Living on a 36-acre off-grid property in northern Arizona, Deb and her husband Jeremy embrace sustainable living through solar power, rainwater harvesting, and a passive solar home built with recycled polystyrene block. A freelance writer and editor, Deb grows food in raised beds and a greenhouse and is an avid hiker and backpacker. A long-time search & rescue volunteer, she has published two novels and previously homesteaded on the East Coast.

Disclosure :  Some of the links on this page are affiliate links, and I may earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase. Rainwater harvesting is a great way to conserve municipal water, reduce utility bills, and create a backup water supply or—like our system here at 36-Acre Wood—even a primary water supply for your entire home. Whether you want to use rainwater for drinking, gardening, or other household needs, you might have questions about how to get started, maintain your system, and ensure water quality. In this post, I’ll address some of the most common questions I get about rainwater harvesting for both potable and non-potable uses and recommend some products we use for our system. FAQ 1: What Is Rainwater Harvesting? Simply put, rainwater harvesting for home use is the process of collecting and storing rainwater. Systems range from basic setups like barrels under gutters and downspouts to more advanced systems with larger cisterns, filtration, and disinfection for potable water. It’s a versatile solution for reducing reliance on municipal water and supporting sustainable living, even in arid areas like here in Northern Arizona. We've been able to meet all of our daily and annual household and garden water needs with rainwater collected from our house and workshop roofs, stored in three partially buried and interlinked 5,000-gallon tanks (pictured here) and several overflow barrels and water totes. FAQ 2: Is Rainwater Safe for Drinking? Rainwater can definitely be safe to drink (potable), but it should be properly collected, filtered, and treated if that's what you'll use it for. Contaminants like debris, bird droppings, and roof materials can all affect water quality, so a multi-step filtration system ensures the water is clean and safe for consumption. Have a look at our filtration and disinfection units here. On a related note: What is the best roofing material for a potable rainwater collection system? The answer: Metal roofs with an enamel finish are often considered the best choice. They provide high collection efficiency and minimal contamination. There are also other suitable roofing materials for rainwater harvesting. Here's a helpful page on Harvesting Rainwater from Roofs from the University of Idaho. Recommended Products for Potable Use: First Flush Diverter:  After the rainwater passes through gutter guards and downspout screens, you can use a first flush diverter (aka roof washer) to further prevent contaminants from the initial rainfall from entering your system. You can buy a first flush diverter kit or make one yourself. (See one of ours pictured here.) Water Filters : After entering your home, the rainwater can pass through a filtration system to capture any dirt, sand, silt, dust, rust, and other small particles that made their way past the first flush. A filter system can also eliminate cloudiness, bad taste, and odors. They're effective on VOCs like pesticides, herbicides, and industrial solvents. We use the US Water Big Blue Dual Filtration System (pictured above), which is mounted in our utility room. UV or Quantum Disinfection:  After the filters, a disinfection unit kills bacteria and viruses. We use the Pulsar from U.S. Water Systems (pictured above), which doesn't require UV light or power. FAQ 3: How Do I Filter Rainwater for Potable Use? This is a partial repeat of FAQ 2, but... To make rainwater safe for drinking, you can use a combination of filters and purification methods in this order: Screen out roof debris:  Install mesh screens on your gutters and downspouts. Use a first flush diverter:  Direct initial dirty water away from your collection system. Apply fine filtration:  Add a filtration system in your home to remove smaller particles. Sterilize the water:  After filtration, use UV purification or non-electric quantum disinfection to kill microorganisms. Recommended Products: Mesh Gutter Guards and Downspout Filters:  Prevent leaves and debris from clogging your system. Check out a variety of gutter and downspout screens on Amazon and choose the size and type to fit your gutters. First Flush Diverters : Remove the initial "dirty" water from each rain before it enters your tanks or barrels by using a roof washer kit or make your own DIY first flush diverter . Carbon Filters for Rainwater Systems:  There are a number of effective options, like the US Water Big Blue Dual Filtration System (which is what we use) and the iSpring WGB32BM . Disinfection Filters: You can use an Ultraviolet Light Disinfection System or non-electric quantum disinfection with a unit like the Pulsar . FAQ 4: Can I Use Rainwater for Non-Potable Purposes? Absolutely! Non-potable uses are the most common applications for rainwater harvesting. Examples include: Gardening and Irrigation:  Rainwater is naturally soft and chemical-free, making it ideal for plants. Washing Vehicles:  Soft rainwater prevents water spots. Flushing Toilets:  Use collected water to reduce household water consumption. Recommended Products for Non-Potable Use: Hose Attachments for Rain Barrels:  Make watering plants easy. Check out the Rain Barrel Diverter Kit with a 3/4 Inch Spigot Kit and Bulkhead Fitting . Pressure Boosting Pumps:  For a smooth water flow, you can use a transfer pump like this one from VEVOR . FAQ 5: How Much Water Can I Collect? The amount of rainwater you can harvest depends on your roof size, rainfall (and snowfall) in your area, and the efficiency of your system. On average, one inch of rain on a 1,000-square-foot roof yields about 600 gallons of water. You can use a rainwater collection calculator like this one from BlueBarrel Systems to estimate potential yields. FAQ 6: Do I Need a Permit to Harvest Rainwater? Rainwater harvesting regulations vary by location. In some areas, permits are required, especially for large systems (that's the case here in Coconino County, AZ, where we have a permitted potable rainwater collection system). Check your local government’s guidelines or water board for specifics. FAQ 7: How Do I Maintain My Rainwater System? Proper maintenance ensures your system remains efficient and hygienic. Here’s a checklist: Clean Gutters Regularly:  Prevent debris from entering your system. Flush Out Tanks:  Rinse barrels and cisterns annually. Replace Filters:  Change filters as per the manufacturer’s recommendations. We recommend U.S. Water Systems for replacement filters for a variety of units. FAQ 8: What Are the Best Storage Containers for Rainwater Harvesting? Common options include barrels, cisterns, and water cubes like IBC totes. Each has pros and cons: Recommended Products: Rainwater Barrels:  Barrels are generally affordable and easy to install. Options like this Happygrill collapsible barrel with spigot  and the BPA-free Blue Water Barrel  are durable and effective, and you can add a spigot  to any other barrel you choose. If you're not harvesting rainwater for potable use, you can use a wider variety of containers for collection and storage. Water Totes : These cube containers are portable, durable, and space-efficient. We use stackable IBC totes  for some of our overflow storage (you can often find used totes for sale locally—just be sure to find out what was in them beforehand) and then use IBC tote covers  to help prevent algae from forming inside the cube and prevent freezing also (see the photo below, showing our covered tote for collecting rainwater off our greenhouse). Polyethylene Storage Tanks : For larger-scale collection and greater storage capacity like we have and potable use, we recommend vertical tanks like this one  from Norwesco. They come in a range of sizes in black or green, limiting light penetration and reducing the growth of water-borne algae. FAQ 9: How Do I Winterize My Rainwater System? You can protect your system from freezing by: Draining or insulating small barrels. Insulating and/or partially burying large tanks or cisterns. (If you want to bury a tank completely, be sure to get one that's designed for that purpose.) Using tank heaters or de-icers. Our large, partially buried polyethylene tanks with their outlets below the frost line don't tend to freeze due to the volume of water and the frequently sunny winter days. While they do sometimes get a layer of ice on the top of the water during occasional stretches of cloudy, extremely cold weather, that ice usually melts quickly and has never presented a problem in our system. Recommended Products: Barrel Covers:  You can try a black barrel cover or reflective bubble insulation . We've had luck with both, but even most of our coldest days are sunny. Floating De-Icers:  The Farm Innovators Floating or Submergible Heater  is effective for larger tanks. Here's more detail on how to keep rainwater barrels from freezing . FAQ 10: What Should I Do About Water Tank Overflow? Depending on your needs and space, you can create several types of overflow systems. Some work best for gardens, while others are ideal for additional storage. The different types are: Basic Spillover Overflow : The simplest option, a spillover overflow, uses a pipe installed near the top of the tank or barrel. When the tank fills, the water flows through the pipe, which directs it away from the tank base. (See one of our spillover setups below.) Secondary Rainwater Storage Overflow : For those who want to capture even more rainwater, a secondary storage overflow system allows excess water to fill another tank. You can connect as many tanks or barrels this way as you want. Garden Irrigation Overflow : This overflow directs water from your tank to garden beds or plants, making it perfect for anyone creating a self-sustaining watering system. French Drain Rainwater Collection Overflow : For larger systems or those with significant overflow volumes, a French drain setup disperses overflow into the ground, preventing pooling and soil erosion. See more details on DIY water tank overflows here . Simplifying Rainwater Harvesting for Home Use Rainwater harvesting offers a sustainable way to reduce water consumption and create a more sustainable lifestyle. Whether you’re collecting rainwater for drinking, gardening, or household use, the right tools and strategies can make the process simple and effective. Explore our recommended products and start building a rainwater harvesting system that works for you—potable or non-potable, it’s a step toward sustainable living. Do you have any other questions about rainwater harvesting or the system we use? Leave a comment below. Written by Deb Kingsbury Living on a 36-acre off-grid property in northern Arizona, Deb and her husband Jeremy embrace sustainable living through solar power, rainwater harvesting, and a passive solar home built with recycled polystyrene block. A freelance writer and editor, Deb grows food in raised beds and a greenhouse and is an avid hiker and backpacker. A long-time search & rescue volunteer, she has published two novels  and previously homesteaded on the East Coast.

Disclaimer: I get a commission for purchases made through some of the links in this post. Living in northern Arizona, where water is precious and often scarce, we've found an abundance in our skies. Through rainwater harvesting, we collect, filter, and use only the water that falls on our roofs, including the house, the workshop, the greenhouse, and a few other small structures on the property—enough to meet all our home and garden needs, year-round. In a region known more for drought than downpours, this may sound impossible. But we’re here to share that not only is it possible, it’s practical, sustainable, and (because people have asked us) completely legal. What Is Rainwater Harvesting? Rainwater harvesting is the process of collecting and storing rainwater and snow(melt) that falls on rooftops, land surfaces, or other catchment areas. In most home systems, the water is captured from the roof via gutters and downspouts and directed into storage tanks or cisterns. With proper filtration and treatment , this water can be used for everything from irrigation to drinking and bathing. In Arizona, where every drop counts, rainwater harvesting has become both a survival strategy and a lifestyle choice. Is Rainwater Harvesting Legal in Arizona? Yes, rainwater harvesting is completely legal in Arizona . In fact, the state encourages it. Arizona passed legislation in 2012 clarifying that individuals may collect and use rainwater on their property. This contrasts with some other western states like Colorado, which, until recently, had strict restrictions on rainwater collection. However, laws are shifting as drought becomes more common in more places and water resources dwindle. It’s always important to check local and state regulations and building codes, especially if you're installing a large-scale system or plan to use the water for potable purposes. Can You Really Collect Enough Rainwater in Arizona? Yes, you can— even in an arid climate like northern Arizona . We’re proof of that. With strategic system design and efficient water usage, we’re able to live entirely on rainwater we collect ourselves. Here’s how we do it: Roof Catchment Area : Between our house and shop/garage, our metal roof area is about 3,000 square feet. For every inch of rain that falls (and for every 10 inches of snow), we can collect around 1,869 gallons of water. Over the past few years, we've recorded about 13 inches of liquid precipitation (some of that being melted snow) at our home. Storage Capacity : We have an interconnected cistern system with a capacity of over 15,000 gallons. This ensures we can store enough during the rainy seasons (i.e., the summer monsoons) to get through the drier months. Filtration & Purification : After collection from our roofs, water passes through first flush diverters (aka roof washers) before entering storage tanks and then through a filtration system and a quantum disinfection system inside the house for potable use, which doesn't require a power source or UV light (other than the pump, which, for us, is a Grundfos Scala2 ). Water Conservation Habits : From low-flow fixtures to mindful gardening with the use of rainwater tank overflow and mulch, every choice we make is designed to stretch every drop. Over the past few years here at 36-Acre Wood, according to our simple rain gauge , we've received around 13 inches of rain and snowmelt, most of it concentrated in the months of July through September. (Up the road, about 15 miles to the north and south, the averages are more like 20 and nine inches, respectively.) With good planning and enough storage, we’ve haven't had to supplement with hauled water. (We have no municipal water where we live.) Benefits of Rainwater Harvesting in Arizona There are many benefits to harvesting rainwater, especially in Arizona: Reduces Demand on Limited Water Sources : Many areas in Arizona rely on overdrawn aquifers or imported water from the Colorado River. Improves Landscape Health : Rainwater is free of salts and chemicals found in some tap water, making it ideal for gardens. Saves Money : While there's certainly a cost to installing the system in the first place, reducing or eliminating your water bill can lead to long-term savings, especially in rural areas where water must be hauled in. Increases Self-Sufficiency : In a changing climate, relying on your own water source can provide peace of mind. It's also super-satisfying! Helps with Flood Control : Harvesting reduces runoff and erosion around buildings during heavy rains. How to Set Up a Rainwater Harvesting System Whether you’re starting small or going all in, a basic rainwater harvesting setup in Arizona includes: Catchment Surface : Your roof. Metal roofs are ideal, but others work, too. Gutters and Downspouts : To channel the water. First Flush Diverter : Also known as a roof washer , it helps discard the first flow of water that may carry debris, like bird droppings or dust. Storage Tanks or Cisterns : Sized according to your expected use and rainfall. Filtration and Disinfection System : Especially if you're using water indoors for potable purposes. Pump and Pressure System : To deliver water where you need it. Note that if you’re planning on using the water indoors, you may want to consult with a professional on filtration and plumbing code compliance. For example, here in Coconino County, Arizona, first flush diverters are required for potable rainwater harvesting systems. Ours was installed during the initial home-building process, so we followed the code to pass the inspection. If you're interested in building a potable rainwater harvesting system for your home , you can check out ours (tips included) as well as how to make your own DIY first flush system . Potable vs Non-Potable Rainwater Use In our home, we use rainwater for both potable (drinking, cooking, bathing)  and non-potable (toilets, laundry, irrigation)  purposes. This is possible because we invested in a proper multi-stage filtration system that includes: Sediment filters Activated carbon Sterilization If you’re only using rainwater for non-potable purposes like gardening, a simpler system can suffice. That said, potable rainwater systems are becoming more common, especially in rural areas like here in Northern Arizona. Rainwater Harvesting Incentives in Arizona Some Arizona cities and counties offer incentives and rebates  to support water conservation efforts, including harvesting systems. For example: Tucson Water  offers up to $2,000 in rebates for passive and active rainwater harvesting systems. Flagstaff  and Prescott  have educational programs and resources to help residents get started. Check with your local water utility or county extension office to see what’s available in your area. Getting Started: Tips for Success If you’re inspired to start harvesting rainwater in Arizona, here are a few tips: Start with your goals : Are you aiming for full off-grid use or just garden irrigation? Understand your rainfall : Know when and how much rain typically falls in your area. Maximize storage : You’ll want enough tank capacity to get you through dry spells. Equalize multi-tank systems: If you're collecting in more than one cistern and linking them together, it's important to keep the overflows on all tanks as close to the same elevation as possible. Learn more about that here . Conserve water : Combine rainwater harvesting with smart water use, including low-flow fixtures, DIY rainwater overflow collection or diversion , and gray water systems, to extend your supply. Educate yourself : Resources like the Arizona Department of Water Resources  and local groups like Coconino County's Sustainable Building Program can help. (We're happy to help, too. Just leave a comment or contact us with any questions.) Final Thoughts Rainwater harvesting in Arizona isn’t just a pipe dream—it’s a smart, sustainable reality. Living entirely off rainwater in northern Arizona has given us a deeper appreciation for our natural resources and a stronger connection to our environment. With a little planning, the right equipment, and a mindset of stewardship, anyone in the Southwest can take advantage of the rain and create a thriving home and garden—no matter how dry it seems. Do you harvest rainwater in an arid area? Please share your experience and suggestions below.

Photo by JasonGillman at Morguefile.com Disclaimer: Some of the links on this page are affiliate links, and I may earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase. Written by Deb Kingsbury Living on a 36-acre off-grid property in northern Arizona, Deb and her husband Jeremy embrace sustainable living through solar power, rainwater harvesting, and a passive solar home built with recycled polystyrene block. They also cultivate food in raised beds and a greenhouse. Deb, who previously homesteaded on the East Coast, is an avid hiker and backpacker, a long-time search and rescue volunteer, and a freelance editor and writer with two published novels. A DIY Guide to Sourcing & Salvaging Wooden Pallets If you're as passionate about sustainable living as we are, you know that repurposing wooden pallets can be a game-changer for keeping your creative and functional projects on the inexpensive and even free side.  Today, we're diving into the nitty-gritty of taking apart and preparing pallets for reuse, repurposing, and upcycling. Whether you're dealing with one pallet, a handful, or a pallet-filled workshop, these tips are for you. The Simple Tools of the Pallet Reclamation Trade Let's start with the basics. For a small number of pallets, all you need are a few simple tools you might already have on hand: a short pry bar , a hammer, and some work gloves (you know, for splinter prevention). First, inspect the pallet for loose nails and remove them. Then, use the pry bar and lift the slats away from the frame.  How To Take Pallets Apart Preserving pallet wood intact can be tricky, especially when it’s been sitting out in the elements for a while—but fear not! It just takes a little finesse and some elbow grease, along with a drop of luck. Step 1: First, t o avoid splintering the pallet wood, focus on the corners, one slat at a time. Place the claw end of the pry bar under the edge of a slat and tap with the hammer to work it under, then start pulling up on the bar. It’s more like jerky tugging than aggressive yanking. You'll probably have to use your foot (or a partner's foot) to steady and hold down the pallet as you pull. Step 2: Once the ends of a slat are loosened, move to the center of the slat. Using the hammer and pry bar method, work up the inner nails. Step 3: When the slat is loosened from end to end, work back and forth along the pallet to pry it off completely. Insert the pry bar carefully into the gaps and apply even pressure.  Patience is key here—take your time to avoid splitting the wood. Slow and steady wins the race, allowing you to salvage both the slats and the frame for all sorts of projects. Step 4: Flip the slat over and tap out the old nails. Handling Pallet Pullers: Tackling Larger Loads Now, if you're dealing with a pallet bonanza, investing in a pallet puller  can be a game-changer. These handy devices make disassembling large quantities much easier, say, if you’re making a pallet accent wall. Just attach the puller to the pallet, give it some muscle, and voila! The pallet comes apart, intact, and ready for its new life. Pro Tip: Have tons of pallets to take apart? Invite your friends and have a pallet-pulling par-tay. Know Your Pallets: A Brief Wood 101 Understanding different types of wood pallets enhances your creative options. Hardwood pallets, usually made from oak or maple, are robust and great for furniture projects. Softwood pallets, often crafted from pine or cedar, are lightweight and perfect for decorative items. If possible, opt for heat-treated (HT) pallets over chemically treated ones to ensure safety for indoor use. Preparing the Reclaimed Pallet Wood Once you’ve taken apart your pallets, it's time to prepare the reclaimed lumber, no matter what the type. Start by removing any remaining nails or staples and sand rough edges.  For a weathered, rustic look, embrace the imperfections. If you prefer a polished finish, a thorough sanding will do the trick.  We’ve found that a medium grit sandpaper  between 60-80 grit is best for pallet wood. Work in the direction of the wood grain. Sanding across the grain leaves scratches, which will be even more obvious if you paint, stain, or varnish afterward. Where and How To Find Free Pallets Now that you're stoked about the prospect of reclaiming used wood pallets, you might be wondering where and how to find them for free—without having to order a ton of bricks (on pallets). There are several types of sources where you can score free pallets: 1. Local Businesses Many local businesses receive goods on pallets and often have a surplus they need to part with. Small retailers, warehouses, and grocery stores are great places to check. Don't be afraid to ask the store manager if they have any pallets they're willing to give away.  Remember those print newspapers people used to have tossed onto their driveways? No? Well, we had a local newspaper place that used to give away loads of pallets, so if you still have one around, that’s another potentially good source. 2. Industrial Areas Industrial areas and manufacturing plants tend to have a surplus of pallets. Drive around these places and you might find pallets stacked outside businesses, free for the taking. That is, always ask for permission before taking pallets from private properties… just in case. 3. Online Marketplaces Websites like Craigslist, Facebook Marketplace, and Freecycle are excellent platforms to find free pallets. People often give away pallets they no longer need. Keep an eye on these sites and act quickly when you find listings for free pallets as they’re usually in high demand. 4. Construction Sites Construction sites frequently receive building materials on pallets, and workers might be willing to part with empty pallets they no longer need. If you’re like me, you can approach the site manager or workers with a sheepish smile and ask if you can take some pallets off their hands—you know, so they’re out of their way and they don’t have to deal with them. 5. Recycling Centers and Dumps Recycling centers and dumps often have designated areas for wooden pallets. Some centers allow people to take pallets for free. Check the rules and regs of your local recycling center to see if they offer this service. 6. Local Farms and Nurseries Farms and nurseries receive shipments on pallets. Approach local farmers or nursery owners and ask if they have any available. They might be more than happy to let you take them off their hands. 7. Distribution Centers Distribution centers for supermarkets and large retailers are another potential source for finding free pallets. Reach out to these centers and inquire about their pallet disposal policies. Sometimes, they have a surplus they’re willing to give away. Remember, when collecting pallets, it's important to give them a once over. Look for pallets that are clean, dry, and free from any visible damage. Try to avoid pallets that have stains, strong odors, or signs of chemical spills, as they might not be safe for use in your DIY projects. Reuse Pallets for Creative, Functional DIY Projects Now that you've mastered the art of pallet reclamation and how to take pallets apart, the possibilities are endless. From rustic photo frames to trendy garden furniture, these salvaged treasures can become anything your imagination desires. Plus, you're not just saving money; you're reducing waste, which is always a good thing. Check out these 50 creative and functional ideas for unleashing the potential of wooden pallets . Taking Pallets Apart FAQs 1. What tools do I need to take apart a wooden pallet? For taking apart a small number of pallets, you need a short pry bar, a hammer, and work gloves to prevent splinters. Eye protection is also a good idea. 2. How can I avoid splintering the wood when taking apart pallets? To avoid splintering, focus on the corners of each slat, use the claw end of a pry bar to gently lift the slats, and apply even pressure while pulling. Patience is key to preserving the wood intact. 3. What are the benefits of using a pallet puller for disassembling large quantities of pallets? A pallet puller makes disassembling large quantities of pallets easier and more efficient. It helps to quickly separate the slats from the frame without much manual effort, ideal for large projects like creating a pallet accent wall. 4. Where can I find free wooden pallets for my DIY projects? You can find free wooden pallets at local businesses, industrial areas, online marketplaces like Craigslist and Facebook Marketplace, construction sites, recycling centers, local farms and nurseries, and distribution centers for supermarkets and large retailers. 5. What should I do to prepare reclaimed pallet wood for reuse? After taking apart the pallets, remove any remaining nails or staples, and sand the rough edges. Use medium-grit sandpaper (60-80 grit) and work in the direction of the wood grain for the best results, whether you prefer a rustic or polished finish.